I am adding AC to my house and want to consider a better quality unit...who makes the better quality ACs with strong warranty's? All postings appreciated.
That's a hard question to answer. Almost all major HVAC companies manufacture multiple brands of systems under their corporate umbrella. Some brands are just clones of the parent company (such as Carrier/Bryant, York/Luxaire, or Trane/American Standard) and some brands are significantly different than the flagship brand (Lennox/Armstrong, Carrier/Heil). To complicate things further, almost all brands come in a good/better/best model lineup. You'll find people who swear by (or AT!) Trane, or Carrier, or Lennox, etc. Its like the old Ford/Chevy/Plymouth arguments. The most important thing in a long lasting system is the installation. Even the highest quality unit you can buy will give poor service if its sized and installed incorrectly. Conversly, a value priced brand (such as Goodman) will give good service if sized, installed, and maintained by a conscientious HVAC company. The new high efficiency units require regular servicing, and can't be ignored for years on end like the systems of 30 years ago. I'd recommend you get at least three estimates, and make sure you're comparing apples to apples when reviewing the estimates.
From what I was told there are only 4 companys that make HVAC equiptment. You will pay more money for these names. All others just put thier name on one of the 4. The quality with HVAC in all in the installation. Proper returns, size, etc. $ for $ these are used throughout my area and can cost 1/2 of the name brands. Goodman Look for installers warranty and not the product. Also indoor air quality add ons are often overlooked. I see so many people spend thousands for equiptment only to opt for a 1 filter. But you need to way your options. So use up to 200 watts but clean the air 99.7%. I dont believe in humidifiers. I feel they just add mold and mildew to the ductwork. There are othere ways to add humidity, and more often they are not needed at all. Goodman Lifetime Compressor Limited Warranty* Lifetime Heat Exchanger Limited Warranty* 10-Year Unit Replacement Limited Warranty* 10-Year Parts Limited Warranty* Mike NJ
Mike, A was actually looking at goodman........ I see goodman all ove your post.... does goodman make a 5 ton variable speed package with about a 16 seer?
Are you just looking for A/C or heat also? You can get up to 18 seer. The air handlers are all 3 speed fans. There is one or two with 14 speed variable fan. Mike NJ
You see goodman all over the post because of they breakdown so much. I'd bett 70% of those issues come from install issues. Good company's. Sell good equipment. Like said install is the key to efficiency and trouple free equipment. Stick with the name brand to take a lot of the jack legs out of the mix
You see goodman all over the post because of they breakdown so much Just wondering what breaks down on them? Are there statistics somewhere I can read about failures? I'd bett 70% of those issues come from install issues. So 30% are mechanic from manufacturing? Goodman did have no favorable reviews compared to others but that was over 10 years ago. Mike NJ
Look, I'm very open minded and like to hear all sides. I can see a good unit when I see one. I'm sure goodman puts out a good unit
Are you adding just a/c? Any ductwork there now? Square ft of house? Floors? Mike NJ
I am doing Just AC. There is some ductwork. There are over 5000 sq ft on 3 floors and that does not include the basement.
4 companys that make HVAC equipment Who are the 4 companies that make HVAC equipment?
Carrier, Lennox, Trane, American Standard, Bryant, Rheem. OK 6. Mike NJ
Carrier, Lennox, Trane, American Standard, Bryant, Rheem. no! go here http://www.prestonguide.com/WhereTheyNow.pdf There are more then that, and some of those listed are the same manufacturer. The brand/model doesn't matter as much a good installation and make sure the contractor does a manual J.
The brand/model doesn't matter as much a good installation and make sure the contractor does a manual J. Yes thats what I was told by the HVAC rep. All have the same overseas stuff in them. Its the installation. Like I said its Goodman for value around here. But I read Rheem has a two stage gas valve and are the only one. Is this correct? The OP is doing only A/C though so it doen not matter I guess. Mike NJ
Mike, not to get off topic......1st.Did you go to the website I listed? Have you ever heard of Preston's guide? Look it up..... the ones I can think of that are all the same with different names on them -Goodman, Janitrol, Amana -Rheem, Ruud, Weatherking -Carrier, Bryant, Payne -Trane, American Standard -York, Coleman, and some others that are slipping my mind -Lennox, Armstrong, Ducane, Air Ease -Nordyne, Broan, Frigidaire, Kelvinator, Maytag, Nutone, Philco, Tappan,Westinghouse -Tempstar, Heil, Arcoaire, Comfort Maker, Day and Night, Keeprite I'm sure there are many others that I'm missing..... you asked about 2 stage gas valves....ALL MAKES have 2 stage models and 2 stage gas valves. Many even have modulating models and gas valves now.
the ones I can think of that are all the same with different names on them And when you get down to it how many actually produce the actuall product? I think it was the six I listed. All other equiptment is from one of them no? I will look up the guide and look around. Mike NJ
I have 8 different manufactures listed..... you posted Carrier, Lennox, Trane, American Standard, Bryant, Rheem. trane makes american standard, Carrier makes bryant. each line I have listed is the same manufacturer.
Tags: makes, better, quality, systems, American Standard, Carrier Lennox, Limited Warranty, Trane American, Trane American Standard, American Standard Bryant, American Standard Bryant Rheem
I was reading through these forums and decided to take the bowl off my carb to clean it. Unfortunetly a very small silver pendulm shaped piece of metal with a fine metal wire connected to it fell out of the carb when I took the bowl off. I have no idea what this is or where to put it back. Can someonetell me where it goes or where I can find a diagram on the web. Thanks! -Ohh and my original problem was the snowblower(Snapper 5240) stalling when it would start to pump out snow. And I coudln't get the choke to full off without it stalling also.
Download the manual below and go to Chapter 6 page 17 illustration 28 to see correctly install the float, clip, and inlet needle. http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf An engine that requires the choke to be engaged to run is a sign of blocked fuel passages in the carburetor. A thorough cleaning is required to restore carburetor operation. If you need further help, post the engine Spec. No. and D.O.M.
criss9567...I did the same thing when pulling the bowl off to clean the needles last night. It dropped right out before I could see it's proper position. Taking the carb off and tipping it upside down is probably the proper way to remove the bowl...but I just wanted to do a quick check. The silver pendulum is an inlet needle. You have to slide the wire sideways across the tab on the float (brass donut) and place the pencil shaped needle upside down into the tube above the tab. It should stay in place once it's on and you hold the float up into the carb. Make sure you align the bowl correctly before putting it back on. I marked mine with a sharpie before removing it and then realized that the marks would come right off when I was using carb cleaner so I took a file and made a small alignment mark across the bowl edge and carb. You also have to fit the rubber seal onto the carb before putting the bowl back on. The pdf that Airman posted is great. ( thanks Airman!) Figures 49 and 50 on page 26 show the position of the needle. It's easier to re-install when the carb is upside down. I did a quick check and sprayed the carb well with cleaner. Once I had the carb back on it's started on the first pull and has been running great today...and I've had a lot of snow to remove.
I have the Lennox G803-90-2 gas furnace. Recently I found that there is problem with the thermocouple and want to replace it myself. I don't have problem in removing the nut connecting the thermocouple to the gas control valve end. However, it seems that there is not enough space for my hand to access the nut on the pilot light end. What should I do in order to reach the nut which holds the thermocouple in the bracket right next to the pilot light. Your advice will be appreciated. KK
Usually there are a couple of screws that hold the pilot burner in place. Remove those and you can gently bend the pilot tubing to make the pilot burner accessible.
Hi SeattlePioneer, Thanks for your reply. The pilot light and the thermocouple are held onto a bracket which is fixed to one of the burners by a screw. Are you saying I can untighten that screw and bend the gas supply tube to the pilot light a bit so that I can reach the thermocouple nut? I'm not sure if we can bend the gas supply tube or not. It's a silver metallic tube and it looks like aluminium. KK
99% of the time you can bend the pilot tubing out to get access to the pilot burner. Of course, you might have the other 1%. Tags: thermocouple, lennox, pilot light, pilot burner, access pilot, bend pilot, bend pilot tubing, bend supply, bend supply tube, pilot tubing, supply tube, that there
it's cemented and about 3ft high. When you sit upright your head is between the joists, otherwise you are crawling. I have hot water baseboard pipes and all the rest of the normal wires like phone, satellite etc down there. I get water in all over the foundation, not just one source. It's sloped towards the front of the house but not completely drain there....some standing greywater does remain in certain parts of the C/S. So if it all did go to the front of the house i could get a sump pump and be done with it but alas it's not that easy. I've seen some home shows where they dig out the foundation of the house and then put barrier against it and backfill but that seems very expensive. My budget for this is about 15K only. and really would like to keep it below 10K because i have to clean up some mold an then insulate. (probably will do that myself) So who do you call for this? A general contractor, a landscaper? I did have a mold guy come in but he estimated 20K just for mold removal so no way can i afford him on regrading etc.
I think you should start outside the building with proper landscaping, taking the water away from the foundation. This is, of course, only a start. Once the water is gone, you can start under the house to correct things.
20k for mold!!! Most crawl spaces are 1700 - 2500
well i did research over the winter and had a personally referred contractor come out and after 3 visits have decided i will probably let him do this...what do you think of the plan? 1. Near my breezeway (rear left side of house) is where tons of water accumulates, after it gets 3-4 inches deep it will go in the breezeway. He will put a yard drain right at that point where the water collects (making it impossible for it to accumulate) then run along the entire left side, back, and right side of the house, up to the front and have it drain into the front yard. He also will put a few more yard drains in back of the house so the water coming off the hill will have somewhere to go. I'm amazed water will travel that far..probably 130 plus feet but he said a gentle slope is all it needs and it will be fine. 2. The gutters are all draining incorrectly (subterranean drains clogged) so he will caulk up what he can and then about a foot under ground, below the yard drain line, have a 2nd drain system exclusively used for the gutter water. I like this idea a lot. I cant afford new gutters now but this should still help a lot 3. around the entire foundation (estimated 3-4 ft deep) will be a membrane..i insisted on this and after watching the Holmes on homes show believe this will be a 100% waterproof solution. 2 bucks per sq ft installed. 4. the membrane will L out at the bottom to draw water away then there will be PVC pipe with holes at 4 and 8 o clock so if any water is near the house, it will fill from the 'bottom' into the pipe and again, that will go around the entire house and drain in the front of the house So that's 3 different drain 'systems' and i should be covered, right? I lose all landscaping around the house but only 5 bushes are worth saving anyway. I cannot see how this very involved process won't work but was wondering what you thought and what i may be overlooking. He will also let me have use of the dumpster and 2 guys for a day to get rid of my old deck /lumber, a huge thorny bush i needed to get rid of, all that wood under there and all the concrete block i have laying around. There's a lot of work involved with my yard debris i've been collecting. And of course all the construction debris he has. there's an underground oil tank he will have to remove too and i lose all the concrete patio around the back of my entire house..but i cant afford to pour a new sidewalk/patio that would be about 100 linear feet and go anywhere from 4-8ft wide. total cost.. 12,400 plus the 2 dollars per sq ft installed membrane. i know it's a lot but i do feel it will work if he does it as he has told me. I just hope i'm not overlooking anything. what do you think?
A lot of depends on your landscaping. Here in Florida, building codes require a 6 slope within the first 10 feet away from the home. That' means you'd need 6 of water everywhere else before you get water up the foundation. Make sure you're gutters aren't dumping water right next to the foundation wall. Check the wall for cracks, just crawl around on the inside of the wall and look for tell-tell signs of where water is coming in.
Originally Posted by Pendragon A lot of depends on your landscaping. Here in Florida, building codes require a 6 slope within the first 10 feet away from the home. That' means you'd need 6 of water everywhere else before you get water up the foundation. Make sure you're gutters aren't dumping water right next to the foundation wall. Check the wall for cracks, just crawl around on the inside of the wall and look for tell-tell signs of where water is coming in. Well they are dumping water right on the foundation, that's part of the problem...clogged under the house etc. But heck with this new membrane etc, even if they ever do clog the water still shouldnt get into the house..i hope? crawling under there is no fun at all..esp because full of mold. Last time i did it i did see one decent sized crack but with this membrane, no more water should come in there, right? that IS why i'm doing this
Hi lucky, two issues, one is the drains where the ground will freeze. I've seen a lot that freeze solid, break up the pipes and become useless. Second is water will find a way around any barrier. Exceptions for people who are lucky so you have an advantage. With the foundation insulated and a Vapor Barrier, I would still want a sump pump as a stand-by. Isn't it a pain that even money has difficulty solving problems like this. You are spending a bundle and still not 100% sure. Keep us informed and I hope you got it Bud
Originally Posted by Bud9051 Hi lucky, two issues, one is the drains where the ground will freeze. I've seen a lot that freeze solid, break up the pipes and become useless. Second is water will find a way around any barrier. Exceptions for people who are lucky so you have an advantage. With the foundation insulated and a Vapor Barrier, I would still want a sump pump as a stand-by. sump wouldn't be 'useless' but would not be very effective. The floor is sloped toward the front (at least on the one side of the house, i forget about the other) but it's not a good slope. So while it definitely would get me down to about 1/2 inch of water throughout, there are still puddles all over the crawlspace while other areas do dry up nicely. I understand you are saying water will go into my yard drains and probably freeze since those will be just under the surface (i think but am not sure) but how can you prevent that cracking...and wont they only crack if the pipe is full and freezes? Maybe i should get roof tape and plug it in? lol But even if those yard drain pipes break, the 4 inch pvc will be down 3-4 feet so any water that gets down that far will just drain out front into the yard and never freeze..i think...i hope. As much of a slope as i have on the front i still cannot picture how this will drain in the front..they said right onto the lawn but to get that low in the yard means it will be 20-30 feet from the house...as i'm up on a 6 ft embankment..that will be quite the view for the neighbors across the street looking directly over lol.
A slow steady trickle seems to be the worst for freezing. When a sump pump hits a drain pipe with a gush of water it drains before it can freeze (sometimes). A perimeter drain that slowly drains to day light will freeze solid in PA at the day light end. I'm sure the old homes in PA are much like here in ME, with a large berm all the way around the house. About 5 or 6 feet away from the house the lawn drops off a couple of feet to shed the water away from the foundation. Back then they were stone foundations with no hope of stoping water so diverting it away was the only option. It is a design element that we have obviously forgotten over the years as I constantly see new homes being built on flat land with no place to send the runoff. Do what you can with surface drainage first. Back it up with drain pipes as you propose. And then back that up with a sump pump. Without being there, that is the best I can do, but remember, this is a project you don't want to do AGAIN. argh! GL Bud
Originally Posted by Bud9051 A slow steady trickle seems to be the worst for freezing. When a sump pump hits a drain pipe with a gush of water it drains before it can freeze (sometimes). A perimeter drain that slowly drains to day light will freeze solid in PA at the day light end. I'm sure the old homes in PA are much like here in ME, ill be having the frozen perimeter drain for sure no my home isnt like others...the rear yard is about 2-3 ft up from the rear patio...block wall holding it up..and thats leaning lol...so all the water yard comes down against my house..literally can see 2 inches of water on back patio where no other paved surface has any accumulated water. And where my breezeway is thankfully it has to be 3-4 inches before it gets in the breezeway, that's sloped a bit. But thats another saturation corner with 4-5 inch deep there in torrential storms and in front the flower beds seem to be sloped toward the house and actually someone built a concrete curb on the one side (to keep water near the house? LOL) edit i just realized he will be digging near my water line..i hope he calls one call!
I am puzzled as to why you need a dry crawl space? Do you want to use it for storage? Water that is below the damp proof course cannot do any harm to your home, so why spend a fortune on trying to get rid of it? Water in the yard is a different situation as one does not want to paddle through water. Simply digging a trench from the water logged area to a space down hill and filling it with gravel so that the water will run away will cost you very little and can be done over the course of the summer. Once your home made French drain is in place you can extend it over time across your yard to capture all the water flowing down the hill and have a no, or little cost dry crawl space. Perry
Originally Posted by Perry525 I am puzzled as to why you need a dry crawl space? Do you want to use it for storage? Water that is below the damp proof course cannot do any harm to your home, so why spend a fortune on trying to get rid of it? Water in the yard is a different situation as one does not want to paddle through water. Simply digging a trench from the water logged area to a space down hill and filling it with gravel so that the water will run away will cost you very little and can be done over the course of the summer. Once your home made French drain is in place you can extend it over time across your yard to capture all the water flowing down the hill and have a no, or little cost dry crawl space. Perry I need to have a dry crawlspace so that water can stop causing damage to the block foundation. Also I have very high humidity in summer in the house and heck even in winter i have 60 usually. It can be up to 80 in summer. Can you imagine how bad that is for 'things' in the house and how bad that is? One expert told me mold cannot grown below 45% but i know i'll never get the house that low. i'd be happy to have it in the 50s, which is what i can get it at when i run my 700 dollar santa fe dehumidifier. At times i have 6-7 inches of water in the crawlspace after a severe storm. And that isnt good at all. I'm sure there are studies about stagnant water out there also yes a sump may get a decent part of that water out but the crawl isnt sloped correctly and i still have puddles all over the place that cannot be dried with as sump. You cant just have water sitting down there all the time. I did try putting a screen in the window there and it has helped dry it out quicker. Also you are mistaken that it cant cause harm to a home. On the interior of cabinets and even up some wooden doors i have mold. I also have it on some clothing in closets where it was stacked and got no airflow. Also my ex was very allergic to mold and had tons of health problems. Not necessary caused by mold but absolutely exacerbated by it. 2 weeks away from the house and she does get better. Some purses she had in a closet were destroyed covered with mold. The mold inspector told me i had one of the worse homes he ever saw..my joists are virtually white in many places, tons of mold down there and no doubt seeping into the house. I dont understand how you can think water in a crawl isn't a problem. Also you cant just 'dig a trench' where my house is. I know you cant appreciate how landlocked i am without pics but lets just say that 100% of the rear of the house has concrete patio around it. Since the water gets under that, and into the house ,the patio is all cracked and 'coming up' all over the place. I simply cannot dig a trench all along the house and have the water go somewhere. Also, the worst part is near my breezeway, which is a low point and no water could be ever diverted away from there to 'anywhere' that is acceptable. A concrete driveway is close to there so you cant drain it under there and everywhere else is uphill just trying to tell you that i really have no choice in the matter...also my gutters as they stand now drain into clogged subterranean pipes which are likely even cracked and making my foundation shift even more. So that must be stopped. I'm confident i'm spending my money where it 'must be ' spent, even though it's expensive. I just cant live here like this anymore. I have a very land locked house that takes a lot of effort to get anything in , they even have to use smaller machines and it's going to be a royal PITA go do anything here. So i know they will be working their butts off, it's not a cake job by any means.
Luckydriver, thanks for the additional information. I have tried to answer some of the points you have made, I will say that, the idea of making a French drain is not just to hold the rain, which it will do. But to provide a process where the water will flow from where you do not want it to be, to somewhere down hill, even into a sewer where it will stop being a problem. In a well designed and built home, the water below a damp proof course will never cause a problem. From what you write, I can see that the home was never designed and built properly and possibly previous owners have done things to create your problems. Ground water will always rise through a concrete wall to a height of four feet. The ground (including the concrete close to the walls ) should be cut away and lowered all round the home until there is more than four feet clear. Or, if that cannot be done, then there needs to be a waterproof plastic membrane inserted between the floor and the concrete foundation/base and the ground outside concrete cut away to one foot below the plastic insert so that rain cannot bounce above the membrane level. Once the the ground has been cleared and or the plastic membrane inserted the problem will go away. As I indicated earlier, water in a crawl space does not gas and produce water vapour, water does not release water vapour unless the sun is warming it or the wind is blowing over it, water sitting in a crawl space is cold and just sits and soaks into the ground. There is no point in trying to lower the internal humidity below 65% at this level living is comfortable and there will be no damage to the contents of your home, the occasional spike to 80% is not a problem. And your dehumidifier will not work so hard and cost so much to run. If you do not have one, buy a weather centre, with an external sensor. This will enable you to see what the indoor and outdoor humidity is at any time. Some like mine have a recording facility that will enable you to see how the humidity relates to temperature. At 30 degrees centigrade air holds 30 grams of water per cubic metre, as the temperature drops the cold air cannot hold so much water, so at 20 degrees centigrade a cubic metre of air can only hold 18 grams of water. From this you can see that as the days temperature rises the air in your home holds more water and as the temperature drops during the night the water drops out, settling on all the things in your home, making them damp and creating the conditions that mould spores need to grow. Keeping the temperature steady 24 hours a day/night during the winter stops this from happening and stops the mould from growing. Once the spring comes and the days and nights warm up, there is less chance of mould growing with the drier weather.
Moisture in a crawl space will create mold in the crawl. Which can get into the home by vents, holes for plumbing and electrical. Moisture in the crawl space will cause RH to rise in the home making it uncomfortable in spring summer and fall making your AC work harder and causing the windows to condensate in the winter. Any thing above 60% humidity will cause mold. IN NO WAY SHOULD WATER BE IN THE CRAWL SPACE..
Originally Posted by airman.1994 Moisture in a crawl space will create mold in the crawl. Which can get into the home by vents, holes for plumbing and electrical. Moisture in the crawl space will cause RH to rise in the home making it uncomfortable in spring summer and fall making your AC work harder and causing the windows to condensate in the winter. Any thing above 60% humidity will cause mold. IN NO WAY SHOULD WATER BE IN THE CRAWL SPACE.. well i knew that but i pity whoever lives in his house and has allergies etc If he thinks it cant affect a house ill take him on a tour of my damage
I regret to say that you are wrong. Condensation occurs only with a change in air temperature. Warm moist air moving adjacent to a cold surface, the surface cools the adjacent air, with the lowered temperature the water vapour condenses onto the cold surface. Mould. This situation requires moist air and a nearby cold surface. In a crawl space the ground underneath will nearly always be the coldest surface and the condensation will naturally form there. The only times this differs is when the floor above has been partially insulated, and the conducted and radiated heat from the room above (if it is heated) is prevented from reaching the extremities of the joists and keeping them warmer than their environment (warm = no condensation) and they reach the same low temperatures as elsewhere.(Although in this case see later.) Only then will condensation form on the timber. Moist air does indeed rise through gaps and holes in the walls and floors, however, this moist air comes from the outside through holes and ventilator spaces. This is pulled into the home by the suction effect of the passing wind, although more often by the heating system installed in the home - the warmed air rising through holes in the ceilings, walls, ventilators, open doors and windows drawing in the humid air from outside. From the above, you can see that the reason there is mould on every thing in your home is, that the home is too cold and there is a lack of fresh air, ventilation. If you open the windows for say five minutes in the morning and again in the evening, a lot of the water vapour in the home will quickly disappear. Although the same thing can be done with your dehumidifier at greater expense. The outside air is almost always drier than the air inside our homes, although not always, there are times when the humidity is the same or even lower. There are hundreds of thousands of homes suffering from damp/condensation in twelve different States. Usually the problem of damp and mould is down to the people living in the home. The big culprit is letting the indoor temperature drop and creating the ideal conditions for mould to form. Then comes not using the extractor fan in the bathroom, not using the extractor fan in the kitchen and utility rooms. Leaving the bathroom, kitchen and utility room doors open, so that the water vapour from these rooms passes into the home. Then comes ventilation, we all breath, we all sweat. Breathing alone puts 2.4 litres of water vapour into the air in our homes per person per 24 hours. Our breath is totally saturated with water vapour. Young children, who are more active, produce more water vapour than adults, animals also contribute large amounts of water vapour, then comes live indoor plants, wet clothes etc. Perry
Originally Posted by Perry525 I regret to say that you are wrong. nothing in that post indicates it's OK to have 6 inches of water continually in your crawlspace and have no ill affects on people or house ever, which is what i contend (with proof) that is true. no one will ever be able to convince me under any circumstance that standing inches of water is ever a good thing to have under your house. The water comes in from somewhere and in this case lets presume it's cracks in the foundation. Water absolutely will hurt concrete more on its way in over the years rushing thru the wall and make things worse for those blocks. I was taught a while ago that water is the most powerful thing on earth and with enough of it, you can do anything (or destroy it) so again, i cant ever see 'letting water in my house' being a good thing.
Have you considered creating a swale to redirect water around the structure or into a french drain? There's a good example of such a project here. ---------- Home Inspection: A business with illogically high liability, slim profit margins and limited economies of scale. An incredibly diverse, multi-disciplined consulting service, delivered under difficult in-field circumstances, before a hostile audience in an impossibly short time frame, requiring the production of an extraordinarily detailed technical report, almost instantly, without benefit of research facilities or resources. - Alan Carson
Originally Posted by Michael Thomas Have you considered creating a swale unfortunately it's impossible in the back. Even if i did the center and right rear parts of the house ( i have a 3ft retaining wall running back there that would be in the way), i have the issue of the left part of the house being somewhat complicated. All the water comes off 3 roofs (home, breezeway/garage) and settles on the left side of the house outside the breezeway. There's concrete walk back there and where all the water goes, it's impossible to run it 'anywhere else' back there. All land etc is running towards the house naturally from the rear and i have a hill all in back of my house...2 inches of water can be on my rear patio and up to 5-6 inches near my breezeway in a bad storm. Also i have a sidewalk on the left side rear of the house and i think some sort of septic tank or patio under my grass there. See, when i tried to put a post in some places, i run into concrete just a few inches down. I never found out what is down there! So all that buried concrete is no doubt causing problems too. I'm really stuck here! the front, maybe it could be done if you got rid of a big tree and all my bushes. But that wouldnt really help the broken gutter run off at all. I need a special system just for that. And the right side of the house could be done easily, except for burning bushes as my 'fence line' no obstructions or gutters there and am at least 20ft from neighbors line.
Do some research on the net! You will discover that there are many places in the world where homes are built above water and in water. In many places the water is only inches below the ground. I accept you hold your opinion. May I just write that we have more than 12 inches of rain on many a day and the first thing you learn to do is design so that it gets away without causing any damage. Most homes are built on the sides of the mountains and have French drains that collect the water, divert it round their homes and take it into the nearest stream or river. Good luck.
Originally Posted by Perry525 Do some research on the net! You will discover that there are many places in the world where homes are built above water and in water. In many places the water is only inches below the ground. and how much of that water gets into the structure regularly like mine does and also seeps up into the home? i have nothing but a 1/2 inch piece of plywood between me and a river...i find it hard to believe anywhere in the world would find that acceptable and safe
It would be helpful if you took some pictures of all 4 sides of the structure from a distance, illustrating the problems, posted then to a free hosting service, and linked to them here.
Originally Posted by Michael Thomas It would be helpful if you took some pictures of all 4 sides of the structure from a distance, illustrating the problems, posted then to a free hosting service, and linked to them here. found one old pic online...obviously an incomplete picture but it's all have handy now. Thats where a huge amt of water is..right where i'm standing. You can see a white table at the bottom..that's sitting on concrete and thats where all the water flows to. And thats just the surface water So what you see drains towards me and right where i'm standing will be a yard drain. you are facing east in the pic, i have a hill south of me sloped towards the house ok found another pic..the only thing it's good for is to show you the rear wall..the green part on the right center of the screen goes about 80 ft to the right and the house is more towards you/severe right on the pic...will try to get other pics
Perhaps it's just me, I'm still not getting the big picture, can you post a link to the Google Map Satellite overhead of the property?
Originally Posted by Michael Thomas Perhaps it's just me, I'm still not getting the big picture, can you post a link to the Google Map Satellite overhead of the property? google is useless...all you would see is a house covered in trees no way to get near the ground like you need. it's a difficult property to explain.
I think grading your foundation with fill dirt would be a less expensive method and could solve your crawlspace issue. You might still have water in your yard, but the chips are stacked against you there. Installing downspout extensions at least 5 ft away from the exterior foundation will help as well. I would abandon whatever system you have for collecting your gutter water and send it as far away as possible. Membranes are expensive and your property is never the same after you dig it up. Try fill dirt. Use downspout extensions....start cheap and simple before you go big time. I hope you didn't listen to the guy telling you water was ok in your crawl space. What planet is he on? If you have visqueen in your crawl now....try and remove it for now...or cut as many slits into it as possible to let the water drain through...it will hang around down there a lot longer on top of visqueen. Good Luck
Originally Posted by dbhazel0221 I think grading your foundation with fill dirt would be a less expensive method and could solve your crawlspace issue. You might still have water in your yard, but the chips are stacked against you there. Installing downspout extensions at least 5 ft away from the exterior foundation will help as well. I would abandon whatever system you have for collecting your gutter water and send it as far away as possible. Membranes are expensive and your property is never the same after you dig it up. what do you mean the property isnt the same? you mean i wont get water in, all the brush/trees that are now damaging my house will be gone, and the house will look great as well as the gutters being repaired so i dont have water overfilling them i cant do downspouts 5 ft away from the house. in the back there's nowhere for the water to go. Period. it would just go 5 ft away then come back to the house. All water roads do lead to the house unfortunately. As far as the front and right side i could put long pipes sticking out into the front yard, but that would look really not so nice and id be tripping over them etc when i tried to cut the grass. Plus i'm not sure if it would be wise in the rear to put fill dirt over cracked up patio for the 100 or so feet that i have around my rear perimeter. I worry the weight may crack the concrete even more and then i have 'uneven' dirt as that sinks further And just like the gutter issue above, any water that does run the 5-6 ft down any new grade will probably just come back onto the house in some other way...the house is cursed that way. so while membranes may be expensive, i dont see how they cannot work and i dont mind paying for a good job, i just want it to be a good and permanent fix is all.
You might think about installing the roll-up down-spout ends to the bottom of your downspouts in addition to doing grading work with fill dirt along the foundation. These roll downspout extensions are usually attached to an elbow joint at the bottom of the downspout, are made of a vinyl/plastic, when there is a rain they will automatically roll out to about 5-6 ft from the water pressure and the water will drain out then they just roll back up to the end ofthe downspout. The other option would be to install underground extensions to the downspouts using a pvc flex pipe and bury them when you did the grading dirtwork along the foundation. As to the side of the house where the terrain runs down hill into the house, think about redesigning the gutter system to call run-off from that side of the house around the corner and then dumps out where it can run away from the house. Bottom line is really simple, water can not be stopped, only diverted, this is a hard fast rule, as water pressure is one of nature's strongest and most damaging forces. All you have to remember is that water will always take the path of least resistance to get back to sea level. Hope this info helps. Do a google search for roll-up downspout extensions or search on one of the home improvemnt store websites I'm sure you'll be able to find that product. Good luck.
Originally Posted by luckydriver i dont see how they cannot work . just know that water always wins....I feel for your situation...I can sense the hopelessness in your writing....I really hope it works for you.... Thanks for listening... Derek
well i'm tired of doing research and banging my head on the wall thinking about all the pros and cons so i signed and he will start next week. I just cant do things half baked and while it will cost a lot, i think going ' all out' is the only way to go here. I neglected the house for 14 years so spending 12K really isnt that bad a deal for all those years of non repairs. aint i the optimist? ill try to do before and after pics then.
update: today they started digging. The front is first. Well wouldnt you know it i have a strange house. The foundation comes out about a foot or more in some areas (the guy said he's never seen this in his entire life but they must have run into something hard and not wanted to go deeper) so the plan to put a membrane up against the house wont work, now. they will still do the yard drains, separate gutter drains, and the pvc drain on the bottom and i guess will just tar the heck out of what they can while this is dug out. I'm a bit suprised it's not deeper but i didnt measure to see how deep this really is. I now realize i'm not taking into account the dirt line that was there before either. and he said ill pretty much have the same dirtline as before. And to NEVER plant anything that has deep roots or it will kill all the pipes he will be installing. So i think ill let them seed it and just have grass for a while Had the water guy out to locate the lines so they dont hit them but one call didnt mark the sewer..thankfully when they found it they didnt break it. Already he saw that one downspout that entered into my ground and was supposed to be carried away was rotten and all the roofwater was just going down and being dumped right at my foundation. something tells me this was not a good thing. And if thats how all the downspouts were, there's a few other issues i'm sure they will find at least it's a known fix and should help tremendously. I'll post updates as fun things happen.
tons to report but someday will just post pics...but it's 75% done but rain held us up a few days. but right inside my crawl window, they drilled down with 12 inch bit to try to get the water in there empied out quicker. They said they had dug under the foundation and filled with stone so it would drain better. Well he said was just a thin layer of concrete when he drilled in the crawl then hit dirt right away but i guess the bit wasnt long enough to hit the place where they put stone in since i watched for a minute down there and the speck of dirt in the standing water didnt move at all and was right on top of the holes (8 of them) so i guess techincally the holes were drilled for nothing but if the water isnt draining out, i guess nothing else can get in either this pseudo drain was never part of a master plan, just something impulsive the bossman saw he wanted done when he was here a few days ago and i said about the existing water under the house
UPDATE it's been almost 2 months since this was done, and i checked a month ago and the crawlspace was dried. we got at least 6 big storms recently and i checked the crawl..there's an inch of water and i'm not happy!!!! called the contractor and said to come take a peek and i have no idea how water could be getting in. i witnessed every single part of this job and cant imagine where the water is coming in. I dont know what the contractor is going to tell me. But isnt it true that water cant go down, over then up? This was dug to the foundation with the aforementioned 3 tier drainage system and even if i had 4 inches of rain pouring down my back yard onto the rear of the house, i dont see how any of it could make it in the crawl. There's so much drainage here it's not funny. however assuming the drainage system is perfect, the only thing i can think of is water is going down under the drainage system, under house then up thru the thin later of concrete floor. However that sounds unreasonable and unlikely. also at a minimum, any water that does get near the house should fall straight down to the bottom of my pit of big rocks and flow out the pipes. and the membrane is sloped away from the house so i cant believe it would run out of the ditch then back and then up into the crawl. im banging my head on the wall here..any ideas? there was a permeable membrane put on top of all the stones so the dirt didnt clog up the stones. Is there any chance the water is sitting on top of that membrane and not falling down and thus going into the cracks in my foundation?
ANOTHER UPDATE: took him a year but he came out and dug 2 holes...then came out during a 'hurricane' and saw that the footer drain is too high up off the ground. His guys didnt do it right. the water has to get 6+ inches high off the bottom of the membrane/stones/ditch in order for it to reach the footer drain.he told me the footer drain should be resting pretty much on the bottom of the ditch so the water can enter it immediately. i also have a weird problem where i was draining my spa into my yard drain and the test holes were filling up. that is supposed to be a 'sealed' system so why the spa was filling the holes is a mystery i still have gutter issues as well but posted those in the gutter forum with pics. Im very upset about all this though, i hope he doesnt need to move my oil tanks again to get in that area as they are full for winter and thats impossible
I am sorry to hear that the people you employed to fix your crawl space did such a poor job. OK. You cannot do as I recommended last year because of existing buildings, but you can complete the French drain and punch a hole through your crawl space to enable the water to run under your home and out the front. And/Or you can add concrete to the floor of the crawl space, sloping from back to front to force the water to run away, under the front of your home.
Originally Posted by Perry525 I am sorry to hear that the people you employed to fix your crawl space did such a poor job. OK. You cannot do as I recommended last year because of existing buildings, but you can complete the French drain and punch a hole through your crawl space to enable the water to run under your home and out the front. And/Or you can add concrete to the floor of the crawl space, sloping from back to front to force the water to run away, under the front of your home. you may not care if water is under your house, but i do. I have the mold to prove it.
If you stop and think about it, your belief that mold is caused by standing water, would mean that the whole of your floor would be covered in mold. And anywhere else that is near standing water. Mold spores are found all over the world. The air we breath is full of them. Yet everything in the world is not covered in mold. Why? Mold spores need food and water to grow, just like everything else. And most places there is no food or water to keep the spores alive. The mold that grows in your crawl space is there because the wood provides the cellulose that it feeds on, it gets the water it needs from the air. The water vapor in the air, gets there from mainly the seas round the equator the sun beats down on the sea and the sea releases water vapor that rises and heads off round the world, making its way to the North and South Poles. Water vapor is attracted to cold, it always moves from warm to cold. On its way, it bumps into cold air, that causes rain and snow. When the water vapor gets to your home, it squeezes into your crawl space through the holes and cracks in your walls, attracted by the cold wood of your floor, and on the wood turns in condensation, some like on a mirror or window you can see, some like on wood, clay, cotton, paper, leather etc; is invisible. You see condensation on your roof and in the yard, when warm wet air meets the cold ground and condenses as dew or frost, or lands as snow. This same warm wet air enters your crawl space and settles on your wood floor. The temperature in your crawl space stays about 12f, the water is the same as the ground. Your wood floor should be warmer than 12f, it should be kept warm by the heat from the room above, but at times it is colder - perhaps you turn the heating off? At those times the water vapor condenses on the wood and provides the water the mold spores require. If you block the holes that the water vapor enters by and keep the floor warm enough to prevent condensation, perhaps by adding insulation below the floor to retain the heat from the rooms above the problem will go away. Without water mold dies, just like we do!
Perry sorry did mold is an allergen so it will still need to be removed! Also if you take away the moisture it will go dormant some times for years before dying
Originally Posted by airman.1994 Perry sorry did mold is an allergen so it will still need to be removed! Also if you take away the moisture it will go dormant some times for years before dying That is all perfectly true. If you look back through the various blogs, you will see that this has already been covered at some length. The mold has been there some time, the various treatments have been covered. There is not much point in washing it off, until the root cause is removed.
Originally Posted by Perry525 Without water mold dies, just like we do! that statement right there justifies my desire for permanent removal and prevention of water getting into my crawlspace. Remove the water, mold dies. Thus i'm trying to remove the water and prevent more from getting in so it can die Not being very successful though. and i cant do a thing in the crawl until the water is permanently stopped. That's a universally agreed upon fact at least. also i recently removed much more carpet in my house in the past year and i'm curious to see if the RH migrates to the living quarters. thankfully i saw no evidence of damage on my hardwood floors in my dining room. but in the year since i 100% cleaned every square inch of mold from my kitchen cabinets, it's already coming back..disheartening since i ran the santa fe pretty frequently. sigh
Tags: tell, best, waterproof, crawlspace, crawl space, Originally Posted, your home, away from, that water, water will, your crawl, water vapour
MAYTAG NEPTUNE FRONT LOAD WASHER MODEL NO. MAH8700AWW SERIAL NO. 11265538GP Everything seems to be working fine until the spin cycle. It will spin, stop, spin, stop every 5 seconds for approx 20 minutes and then spin continuously until cycle is finished but never draining all the water out. Problem is it never reaches it’s full RPM’s so the clothes are still wet causing the dryer to work overtime. One thing I noticed was during the final spin. During the spin, stop, spin, stop, it would sit on 8 minutes remaining for approx 20 minutes before it would start counting down but still never reaching full spin RPM. I have tried using the spin only setting and still sits on 8 minutes remaining for 20 minutes.
could be the out of balance switch(s)
Originally Posted by David_Thompson could be the out of balance switch(s) Not sure where that is but I did run a diagnostics and was given an error code of DC. This test was done on both a full and empty load with the same results. While it is trying to spin, the RPMs never go over 200 and levels out at 180 to finish the cycle. A far cry from the 1100 normal. Pump is working fine as far as I can tell, no blockage. Normal 59 minute wash load takes approx 2 hours to complete with all the starting and stopping during the spin cycle.
Conducted one more RPM test on the spin cycle. Was able to get it up to 710 RPM for 3 minutes dropping down to 5 minutes remaining from the abnormal 8. Shortly after, it started powering down and the remaining time jumped back up to 8. Started smelling burning rubber so I shut her down. I could really use some help!
You can download a manual from here Appliance Repair Forum - Washer Service Repair Manuals
Continual running will eventually blow out the motor and or the motor drive electronics. If you have a amprobe, monitor the current to the motor control unit, the black wire on the two pin connector. during spin, probably over 3 amps. If you can feal any roughnes in the tub bearings, you need to change the tub bearings.
I guess since it could be a number of things, I think I will just get with my Home Warranty company and have them fix it. By the looks of things, the deductible is going to be far less then the parts themselves.
Tags: maytag, neptune, spin, spin stop, minutes remaining, spin cycle, approx minutes, balance switch, could balance, could balance switch
I'm looking for a little advice. I have installed 4Lithonia IC rated remodel housings into my insulated ceiling. I plan to install LED retrofits. I have found one at Lowes (Utilitech Pro White 4-In Integrated Led Remodel Recessed Lighting Kit) on sale but in the specifications it lists the lamp as Non-IC. Am I ok installing this in an IC housing or are they looking for Non-IC housings to vent the heat?
LED retrofits can go in any can. Their heat output is minimal compared to incandescent.
The housing on a recessed light is in contact - or not - with the insulation. The trim and lampholder aren't. Any light bulb that draws no more current than the maximum voltage rating for the fixture can be used safely.
Thanks for the replies. I just found it odd that the LED kit specifically says NON-IC.
I just found it odd that the LED kit specifically says NON-IC. This is becoming confusing. I'll try clarifying it based on my understanding of your question. Since you didn't link to the specific product you're considering, I searched for the name you gave it. I found two products at Lowe's, which is where you said you found it. One is a 4 remodel light fixture: Utilitech Pro White 4-In Integrated LED Remodel Recessed Lighting Kit. The description for it says Insulation contact rated. The other is an LED trim-and-lamp assembly with a plug that screws into the lampholder in an existing housing: Utilitech Pro White 4-In Integrated Led Remodel Recessed Lighting Kit. This sounds like what you have in mind. Yes, it does say Non-IC in the specifications. Of course it's not rated to be in contact with insulation on it's own. It's designed and rated to be screwed and mounted into an existing housing. If that housing is IC, the owner is good to go. If the housing is non-IC and not in contact with insulation, the owner is good to go. If the housing is non-IC and is in contact with insulation, that's non-compliant and a hazard, but it was already that way before the kit was installed. The only way to put this kit in contact with insulation would be to somehow mount it directly into the ceiling and screw it into a socket that was floating there. Clearly a violation on many points.
just bought and installed the duel flush model 215 583 glacial bay toilet from home depot. it will not flush the solids without a minimum of 2 flushes. this is suppose to be a water saving toilet, hah! i have it adjusted to the max as per the directions. anyone have this model and know fix the problem? cant take it back after its been installed of course so im stuck i guess. thanks all
Sure you can take it back....clean it up a bit (no need to gross out the returns person)...take your receipt and viola...yer done. Just tell 'em...it doesn't work...it's a bad design. Might be store credit, but unless you bought it 4 months ago or have no receipt...I doubt it. The basic GB toilets work OK in most situations...but I'd go with a major brand for something relatively new like dual flush operation.
When you pick out your new toilet, check the flush ratings (1-10), 10 being the best. I, too, learned the hard way. Cheap is cheap.
when i did buy this it says it had the flush rating of 8/10. not the best but an 8 should flush with 1 flush i thought. if anyone knows glac bay email address please post it. worrdpress@glacierbaytoilets.net email goes through to this address but no replys.
Glacier Bay is a house brand exclusive to Home Depot. I don't know who makes them for the Depot but I would be extremely wary of purchasing a toilet from them.
Just a thought? do you have low water pressure in your house?
Water pressure wouldn't make a difference. Any chance that there is a partial obstruction in the drain? Any difference when you lift the flapper manually? Just like Gunguy said. You can take it back. Just tell them it sucks (or actually doesn't suck. At least not enough), doesn't work right and you don't want it. For all the badmouthing that HD gets here and on other boards, they are great with returns.
Your website obviously would be a blog, not a manufacturer. Glacier Bay toilets are made in China for Foremost Groups Foremost Groups - Corporate Hompage Naturally, they don't specifically talk about GB, which is one of MANY private labels they produce. But if you look through their spec sheets, you can probably decode the GB model number.
thanks allot for the address. and no obstructions either.
jturk1, I figured out solve the same problem. I have two of these toilets. The instructions suck. Here's what I did and maybe it'll work for you. I took the lid off the tank and pushed the inside flush buttons with my fingers. The flushes were fine that way. But when I put the lid back on, the flush volume was pitifully low. So the flush buttons were the problem. The buttons in the lid that push posts down to flush weren't long enough. I unscrew the posts that run down from the lid buttons and made them longer. Once the posts were long enough to really push the interior flush buttons, the toilet (both of them) worked great. I've got a third one to put in now. Hope that helps. Originally Posted by jturk1 just bought and installed the duel flush model 215 583 glacial bay toilet from home depot. it will not flush the solids without a minimum of 2 flushes. this is suppose to be a water saving toilet, hah! i have it adjusted to the max as per the directions. anyone have this model and know fix the problem? cant take it back after its been installed of course so im stuck i guess. thanks all
LCRAWLS...Welcome to the Forum... And thanks for such helpful info on your first post! Hope jturk sees it before he takes the toilet back.
Tags: glacial, toilet, take back, flush buttons, toilet from, adjusted directions, adjusted directions anyone, adjusted directions anyone have, adjusted directions anyone have this, after been, after been installed
Does anyone know of any resources for building your own transom windows? I need to build about a dozen transoms for my interior doors. Any books or plan illustrations out there? Norm Abram, are you reading this? :-)
FIrst thing you'll need to determine is if you have load bearing headers over the doors......older houses did, but they also had 9-10' ceilings so they could get a transom up there, and still have room for the support header. Once you get past that, you need to decide if these will be deadlites that don't open, or operating type transoms. Non-operational transoms shouldn't be too hard to build IF you have some advanced woodworking skills...you're basically going to have to make a rough opening much higher than a normal door, then build new jambs with a mullion between the door top and the transom....then case the whole thing and set glass in the transom space. Operating transoms will be a bit harder, and you'll have to come up with a source of hardware like is used for awning type windows unless somebody still makes the old transom type with the crank rod that comes down the side of the door casing so you can operate the window. Or you might pick up some if you're around where they are wrecking old houses with transoms. Sounds like a lota work to me......
.... isn't hard. http://www.aresource.com/transom.html is just one of many online sources. Go there, click and see all the hinges, pivots, chains, handles, locks and etc. My suggestion: Any architectural salvage yards by you? If yes, check and see what they have. Buy one and copy it - but to your dimensions, or just photograph a couple to get ideas and maybe take some rough measurements. If no, Andy has perfect solution for making fixed lites - but operable ones can be made with jamb pivots (they're easy to install - some are surface mounted with screws to the jambs, others need simple mortising first) and proper placement of stops, 1/2 on inside, 1/2 on outside. Design tip: My relatives own apartment houses in Brooklyn NY with transoms and nearly all of them have jamb pivots with pull chain locks up on the header.
Hi. I'm interested in transoms as well. Did you get yours worked out? Found a source for hardware to open and close operational transoms http://www.deabath.com/Hardware/Transomop/transomop.htm I'm wondering why I can't find operational transoms available anywhere. They work great for air circulation, are still recommended by several green house building organizations, and high ceilings are in vogue now. Why no transoms? Any resource help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Hi. I'm interested in transoms as well. Did you get yours worked out? Found a source for hardware to open and close operational transoms http://www.deabath.com/Hardware/Transomop/transomop.htm I'm wondering why I can't find operational transoms available anywhere. They work great for air circulation, are still recommended by several green house building organizations, and high ceilings are in vogue now. Why no transoms? Any resource help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Tags: transoms, operational transoms, source hardware, yours worked Found source hardware, anywhere They, anywhere They work, anywhere They work great, anywhere They work great circulation, available anywhere, available anywhere They, available anywhere They work, available anywhere They work great, building organizations
I am trying to fix a Buffalo Tools air compressor. Can't find a model number on it. It belongs to a family member and got damaged in a move. The Manifold is broken. Does anyone have any idea where to find new parts for these compressors? Has anyone constructed their own replacement manifold can it be done reasonably well? Thanks for any help you can give........Dodgenut
You may be able to replace it but it would depend on how it's configured. Many inexpensive compressor units have the pressure relief and compressor unloader as part of the manifold and you would have to allow for these when you repair yours. Some clear, close up pictures of what you have are needed.
Even posting the make and model would be better then nothing.
The make is Buffalo Tools. It is Chinese. As I said in original post, I can't find a model or model number listed on it anywhere. I did find a serial number. It is: 18741FW. I didn't figure that would be of any use, but if it is, ok. I will try to upload some pictures later today. I would like to find new parts, but if not, will attempt to build my own manifold. Which was my second question originally. I wondered if anyone on here had done it. GregH (Moderator) made a good point about the configuration. One problem I have found with Chinese equipment is that they use a different metric system. The thread count on their metric bolts is different from standard metric. Thanks for replying and any and all future help will be appreciated........Dodgenut
GregH: I believe I have you to thank for relocating this to it's own posting. I wasn't sure post a new thread on here, so I piggybacked it where I did. Thanks again......Dodgenut
The bolts may be metric but the pipe sizes should be standard sizes. Pressure switches, relief valves, and regulaters are commonly avalible items. Even the box stores carry them in the same isle as the compressors.
joecaption1: Thanks for the comeback. I am becoming more and more certain that I am going to end up building my own manifold. Everything except the manifold and one gauge are undamaged. The manifold is my only concern........Dodgenut
WE can only speculate until you post a clear close up of the manifold and fittings. We might be able to tell what is standard and not. An inexpensive compressor I own does have standard fittings but one that is nearly identical we use a work is metric and it would not be easy or cheap to replace with anything other than an exact replacement.
IMG 0462JPG (1536x2048) It this works, Compressor. Nope it didn't
IMG 0464 JPG Trying this from Imageshack. Nope, guess that didn't work either. Ok, one more time from Imageshack. URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/img0464r.JPG If it doesn't come up on here when this posts, I hope someone can get it up. If you can, let me know and I will do the same for the rest of the photos I took........Thanks Dodgenut Here is a link to the page which is in the top address bar of your photo site.. ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting I too have problems adding an image in that it looks like the forum is not resizing images from a web link.
The regulator is a part of the manifold so if you try to install a standard manifold you will need a new regulator. I would suggest that you remove the gauges, pressure relief and pressure swich to make sure they are standard NPT threads. You also have to check the union below the manifold as that may not be standard. Unless someone has a fix for inserting images just add to your photo page and the link above will lead to them.
I resized and posted the pic here for you.
Thank you! I am considering taking this compressor with me to my brother's home in Colorado where I will have a fully equipped shop to work in. Also, he has built several compressor systems before. I was going to try and do it here, but am running out of time. I will post how it is going and what we did, along with pictures. I was really hoping for a source to just replace the manifold. However, no one seems to know where parts can be had. Thanks.......Dodgenut
It seems to be the norm for a manufacturer to just junk an inexpensive gadget and just replace the whole thing. I have gone to great lengths to try to get parts for cheap microwaves, a/c units, small fridges and freezers that were sold by box stores and just out of warranty. Spare parts were never imported by the stores that sold them and the warranty department was the dumpster!
Tags: buffalo, tools, compressor, parts, post, thread, Buffalo Tools, clear close, find model, find parts, from Imageshack
I just had a wireless security system installed, I have 3 door and 2 motion sensors. They are all wireless, the installer was able to get the 3 door and one of the motion sensors installed and tested no problem but the last motion sensor in the living room (15 feet away from the main control Honeywell LUNXR-2) only works in the TEST mode and will not trigger an alarm in the NORMAL mode, since this unit is battery operated I would like to get it working in NORMAL mode since in TEST mode is flashes the LED light and will drain the battery. The installer messed with this for 8 hours (no jokes) and could not get it working, after he left, I figured I will read the manual and DELETE / ADD the motion sensor myself and try different things. I have moved the sensor to several locations in the living room, have tried it in pulse ( ON and OFF) with NORMAL jumper setting. I have deleted and added the sensor in different zones such as kitchen and dinning room and have had no luck in getting it to work. It only works in TEST jumper setting mode, the odd thing is that the other motion sensor works just fine in NORMAL + Pulse OFF and it is upstairs 3 times farther away than the living room motion sensor. Any ideas? PS, the installer tried out a second motion sensor in the living room and had the same problem. Thanks
First, did you open and close an entry exit door? Remember, modern alarm systems auto-bypass interior zones if you don't open and close an entry-exit door. Second, wireless motions do have an automatic power saving mode where they only react to motion every 3-5 minutes.
No, I did not run the test in that manner, I tried the doors while I was testing, in random order and LUNXR-2 triggered an alarm. Are you saying that I need to place the motion sensor in the NORMAL mode, than go to LUNXR-2 panel and put the it into test mode (number + test key) and than try a door first (main door) and than try moving around in the living room? If the motion sensor goes to power save, how will it trigger if someone breaks a window and comes in? Please tell me how I should conduct a test? Thank you.
The power save mode only limits the number of activations within a couple of minutes. If you are armed in away mode, then there is nothing to constantly activate the motion timer, thus it will alarm if something enters it's field of view. The best way to test the Lynxr is to arm the system in away mode, open and close an entry exit door, then get out of the field of view of the motion(s). Wait a couple of minutes, then try moving in front of the motion. The actual problem is that you apparently didn't have an installer who was well enough versed in the function of the system to give you a proper walk thru.
The installer said this was his first LUNXR-2 system he had no training in it Many thanks for your advice.
hi there, did this solve your problem? i'm having the same issue here.
Yes, after reading the answer given to my original question (MrRonFL) and reading the programmer and installer manual again carefully, I figured out that I should jumper the motion sensor for NORMAL set the pulse jumper to disabled, (I have cats) and run a test by: Engaging the Alarm for real (call the monitoring company first and tell them you are running a zone test. Open and close a main exit door, stay out of motion sensor range for 3 minutes or more (like you have left your house). Walk into the motion sensor view area, your alarm should trigger, this is like someone broke your window and came in and none of your main exit doors were opened up. PS, the motion sensor goes into power saver mode and best way to wake it up is to use the AWAY option and test it for real. It would sense an intruder and send a signal and then sleep for 2 minutes or more since it has triggered the designers of the sensor did not see any reason to continuously triggering it (sort of power save). But try it out to make sure. Also, the sensor should not be installed close to a light or heating vents, also you should avoid having a ceiling FAN, on when you are testing or you leave the house, ceiling fans can cause false behaviors. I hope this helps.
I am having the same problem, but in my case I can't get the serial number to show up with the (L)when I try to program it up. Any Idea:
Put a opaque hat over the motion. When you get to the prompt for the serial transmission, take the hat off to trip the motion. This keeps the 3 minute lockout between activations from goofing you up.
Ok kiddies... The good folks at Honeywell Ademco have done a poor job of documenting the DUAL TAMPER Switches on the 5894PI Motion Detector. YOU MUST HAVE THE MOUNTING PLATE INSTALLED to close the posterior switch as well as have the front cover installed to close the tamper switch.... ONLY IN THIS MANNER WILL THE 5894PI work and stop issuing the CHECK #??? response. IT IS SO EASY.. A HIGH SCHOOL DROP OUT CAN INSTALL AN ALARM...... Enjoy.... TRUTH HURTS... I KNOW... Tags: ademco, motion, sensor, only, works, test, mode, motion sensor, living room, exit door
Vertical blinds provide privacy and versatility for windows; you can let in just as might light as you like, or you can open them completely. For this reason, many people use them on their sliding glass doors. Because they hang vertically, they don't collect dust the way horizontal blinds do. Vertical blind panels may need realignment or adjustment from time to time. You can realign panels and adjust the spacing between each panel without calling a repairman.
Instructions
Readjusting Vertical Panels
1. Realign a vertical blind by taking it out and reinserting it into the bracket that holds it in place. Slide a credit card, or another type of small plastic card into the top of the bracket. Do this on the side where the cord is hanging. This will unhook the catch that is retaining the blind so you can take this side of the blind out of the bracket.
2. Pull the chain on the side of the blind so the hooks realign. Reinsert the blind into the bracket.
3. Tap the rod for the blinds gently with your finger to adjust a chain that is not pulling with ease. This will loosen the push nut on the other side of the headrail that is located on the top of the blind. The chain should now pull smoothly.
Adjusting the Space Between Panels
4. Reduce gaps between the vertical blinds by removing the spacers in between the vertical blinds with a screwdriver. Spacers are small plastic pieces that separate each of the blinds. They are positioned at the top of the vertical blind between each panel.
5. Insert the screwdriver in the spacer and apply pressure to it, allowing it to slip off. Remove each of the spacers and keep them in a safe place in case you want to replace them later.
6. Pull the cord to completely close the panels and turn them so no light shines through. The blinds should now hang close together, overlapping a bit so you have complete darkness in the room when they are closed.
Cats can carry ringworm, a type of fungal infection.
Although it is normal to lose some hair every day, some people occasionally experience excessive hair loss, known as alopecia. Excessive hair loss can be caused by many things, including hormone imbalances, infections, medications, certain hairstyles, and male-pattern baldness.
Hormone Imbalances
Imbalances of male and female hormones can lead to hair loss. This can usually be treated by correcting the hormone imbalance.
Infections
Fungal infections like ringworm can cause small patches of hair loss. Ringworm can be treated with antifungal creams.
Medication
Some medications, including blood thinners, high blood pressure medicine, birth control pills, and antidepressants, may cause hair loss. Stopping medications can improve hair loss, but always talk to a doctor before you stop taking medication.
Hairstyles
Certain hairstyles, like tight ponytails or cornrows, can lead to a kind of hair loss known as traction alopecia. Hot oil treatments or chemical permanents can also cause hair loss. Hair usually grows back from traction alopecia unless the scalp is scarred.
Male-Pattern Baldness
Male-pattern baldness (androgenetic alopecia) is characterized by baldness on top of the head and a gradually receding hairline. Male-pattern baldness is permanent.
Warning
Hair loss can rarely signal the onset of a disease like lupus or diabetes; always seek medical care for unexplained hair loss.
Diesel power doesn't have to come from petroleum products.
Bio diesel is a renewable resource that fuels vehicles from garbage. Waste vegetable grease and oil is broken down chemically by a process called transesterification. This process breaks down the bonds in oil in much the same way as soap making. In fact, one of the by-products of bio diesel is glycerin, a common ingredient in soap. There are many kits and systems that make the process easier and safer. But all of the necessary equipment is available from any local cooking and hardware store. Many of the chemicals can be purchased at hardware or pool supply stores.
Instructions
Preparation and Titration
1. Strain the waste vegetable grease or oil. If necessary, heat the grease before pouring it through the filter.
2. Slowly heat the oil to 260 degrees F to remove any residual water.
3. Mix 1 gram of lye to a liter of distilled water. Put the lid on the container and make sure that the lye dissolves completely.
4. Measure 1 ml of oil to 10 ml of Isopropyl alcohol. Add two drops of Phenolphthalein to the mixture.
5. Add drops of the lye/water mixture at the rate of a tenth of a milliliter at a time to the grease/alcohol/Phenolphthalein mixture. Stir after each drop. Count the number of drops needed to turn the mixture pink.
6. Add 3.5 to the number of milliliters of lye needed to change the color of the sample mixture. Multiply this sum by the number of liters of oil to be transformed. This is the amount of lye needed to change the oil into diesel.
7. Divide the volume of the grease to be changed by 5. This is the amount of methanol needed in the process.
Transesterification -- Turning Fat into Fuel
8. Prepare the tank. The tank can be purchased or made. It must have a hose connection at the bottom. There must be an opening at the top for adding materials that can be closed during the settling process. The entire tank must be stainless steel or glass since the chemicals react with plastic, aluminum and tin. The size of the tank depends on the amount of grease you will be transforming.
9. Heat the grease to between 120 and 130 degrees F. Pour it into the tank.
10. Combine the calculated amount of lye with the calculated amount of methanol in a large container. Mix the chemicals with the paint stirrer attached to the drill. When the chemical gives off heat, it will have transformed into sodium methoxide. Use gloves to prevent any chemical from spraying on skin. Sodium methoxide is a very dangerous chemical. It's toxic and caustic. It will burn the lungs if inhaled and the skin if touched. Its a good idea to keep water running nearby to immediately wash any chemicals from the skin.
11. Carefully pour the sodium methoxide into the tank with the warm fat. Use the drill with the paint stirrer to mix the chemicals for an hour.
12. Allow the container to rest for eight hours. This allows the glycerin and diesel to separate.
13. Attach the clear tubing to the nozzle at the bottom of the tank. Turn the spigot and allow the glycerin to drain into a bucket. The glycerin will be dark brown. Watch the tube carefully. When the fluid lightens to a honey gold, stop.
14. Drain the light, honey gold fluid into a diesel container. The container must sit for a week. This allows any soap particles to settle at the bottom.
15. Filter the bio diesel through a disposable paper filter and store for use in vehicles.
Tips Warnings
Quickly cap any unused lye solution. As long as it is uncontaminated, the solution can be used for titrating many batches of biodiesel.
A children's medicine spoon is often marked down to single milliliters. This can be used instead of a small beaker. If used for Phenolphthalein, do not use the spoon for children again.
Always use protective gloves and glasses when working with bio diesel.
Methanol and Sodium Hydroxide are toxic and can burn skin. Keep water running when working with these chemicals so any spillage can be quickly rinsed away.
Sodium methoxide is extremely caustic and toxic. It should never come in contact with mouth, lungs or skin.
Always work in a well ventilated area.
Keep children and pets away from the work area.
Never use any of the measuring or mixing appliances used in this process for food.
A broken shift cable isn't an expensive repair. The cable connects the gear shifter to the shifting arm of the engine. A sleeve houses the shift cable to keep it free of dirt and grim. The purpose of the shifting cable is to adjust the arm as it moves from first, second, third to fourth gear. The cable also adjusts for movement into reverse. The shifting cable breaks when there is too much pressure applied. Pressured is caused from overheating in the transmission. When a shift cable snaps, the gear shifter can no longer switch from gear to gear.
Instructions
1. Take the rubber boot off the gear shift inside the vehicle and lift it up, exposing the area where the gear shift and the transmission connect.
2. Look for the shift cable and the shifting arm. A single bolt and nut connect the shift cable and shift arm.
3. Twist the nut connecting the gear shift and the transmission. Use a socket wrench and remove the gear shift. Use an open-end wrench to loosen the nut holding the shift cable and the shift arm together.
4. Slide off the sleeve on the shift cable and loosen the shift cable at the other end with an open-end wrench. Both ends of the shifting cable attach to the shifting arm in different locations.
5. Hitch the new shift cable to the 2 anchor points on the shift arm using the same bolts and nuts. Reconnect the gear shift to the transmission and push the rubber boot back into place around the gear shift inside the car.
6. Test the functionality of the shifting cable by moving the gear shift in and out of gear.
Tips Warnings
Ensure that the damage is to the cable and is not a broken anchor arm. If it is a broken anchor, this is the problem, not the cable itself.
Do not drive the car until you have tested the ability of the shift cable to move the shift arm from gear to gear.
The cam cover on this sportster is imediately below the pink air cleaner below the pink gas tank.
There are two common reasons to remove your cam cover. The first reason is to change out the cam or cams and if that is your intention you should know that as part of that process you should cut your standard pushrods with a bolt cutter, pull them out and replace them with adjustable pushrods. Or you might simply have found a cam cover you think looks better and if that is your motivation this is a very simple, nuts and bolts job. The procedure is identical on all Harley V-Twins, so once you know do this to your Sportster you can do the same thing to any air-cooled Harley.
Instructions
1. Park your Sportster in gear with the ignition off and the bike leaning left on its jiffy stand.
2. Remove the five ignition cover screws with a socket wrench and a Torx or Allen socket. The socket you use will depend on the year and engine model of your Sportster. Ignition covers on current models are fastened with T20 Torx screws.
3. Unscrew the nine Allen bolts that hold the cam cover to the engine block and the cam support plate using a socket wrench and a 1/4 inch Allen socket. Remove the bolts in a crossing pattern which means you should remove the bolts in pairs that are on opposite sides of the cover rather than in pairs that are right next to each other. Removing and fastening bolts this way prevents the cover from warping.
4. Remove and discard the cam cover gasket. Replace this gasket when you begin to reinstall or replace the cam cover.
5. Refasten the cam cover to the engine using the cross-pattern sequence described in the Harley-Davidson shop manual for your Sportster to tighten the Allen bolts. The sequence begins by tightening the bolts at 11, five and seven o'clock. Tighten the bolts with a 1/4 inch Allen socket and a Torque wrench to 150 inch pounds of torque.
6. Refasten the ignition cover to the cam cover using a socket wrench and a Torx or Allen socket. Harley-Davidson does not specify a torque tightening range for these screws.
In the snow belt, most municipalities expend a considerable effort to ensure their streets and sidewalks can be traveled without too much risk of slipping and falling. For adults, an uncontrolled fall from a standing position can easily produce broken bones, concussion or soft-tissue injuries. Help bolster your safety when walking on ice or slippery floors by making your boot soles non-slip. There are several ways to keep boots from slipping, depending on your budget and circumstances.
Instructions
1. Take your boots to a shoemaker, and have non-skid soles installed. Modern non-skid soles are reliable on most types of flooring, and will give the best overall result. However, this solution isn't always available, depending on the type of boot, its planned usage or the owner's budget.
2. Clean your soles carefully and apply stick-on traction pads. These are available at department and drug stores, and consist of a patch of rough material that creates traction by friction. They have adhesive backing to hold them in place. These pads only work on smooth, shoe-style leather and plastic soles.
3. Cut a shallow grid pattern carefully into the plastic or leather sole of your boot, with a scalpel or box cutter. This will provide a modest degree of traction.
4. Scuff the soles of your boots aggressively on coarse concrete, or with a very coarse piece of sandpaper. Once they've been roughed up, your boots will hold better on most surfaces.
5. Fit your boots with metal cleats, if slipping on ice and snow is your concern. The cleats are held on with a lightweight harness or bungee cords, and turn your boots into the equivalent of a studded snow tire. This solution is suitable only for outdoor use.
Window coverings need periodic attention to remove accumulating dust and dirt from the fabrics. While many window coverings require dry cleaning, you can often wash your sheers in the washing machine and dry them in the dryer to restore them to a clean condition. Get wrinkle-free sheers after washing by paying careful attention to the drying process. With a few simple techniques, you can avoid unsightly wrinkles in your sheers.
Instructions
1. Remove the sheers from the washing machine and place them in the dryer. Add two or three hand towels to the dryer with the sheers to help remove some of the wrinkles that may occur during the drying process. Set the dryer to cool and turn it on. Remove the sheers from the dryer while they are still slightly damp and return them to their hanging position over the windows.
2. Fill the spray bottle with 1 part white vinegar and 3 parts cool water. Shake the spray bottle to mix the ingredients well. Hang the sheers from the clothesline with the clothespins and spray the sheers evenly with the diluted vinegar. Allow the sheers to dry completely and you should see the wrinkles disappear effectively from the sheer fabric.
3. Spot treat wrinkles while they hang on the windows. Saturate a clean cloth with warm water and wring it out thoroughly. Place a dry and clean cloth on the backside of the sheer fabric behind a wrinkle and blot at the wrinkle with the wet cloth. Continue moistening the sheer fabric until you remove the wrinkle and then allow the sheer fabric to air dry.
It's amazing that any calves born today are the product of live breedings, as there are so many advantages to using artificial insemination. AI breedings aren't limited by geography, so the potential for genetic diversity is increased. Also, a bull owner can collect enough semen from one ejaculate to service hundreds of cows, making it highly profitable. Follow these steps to learn collect semen for artificial insemination.
Instructions
1. Watch experienced handlers collect semen many times before you try it on your own. Notice how the collector steps carefully around the bull to avoid injury.
2. Ask your veterinarian for collection-kit suppliers. Buy several kits so that you have them on hand for shipping fresh semen. These should include extenders and shipping equipment.
3. Make sure the artificial vagina is clean and that the collection bag is securely attached. Fill the artificial vagina with warm water and lubricate it.
4. Allow the bull to mount the teaser cow. Your helper should stay near the front of the animals while you gently direct the bull's penis away from the cow and into the artificial vagina. Take care not to injure the bull, or he may refuse to mate in the future.
5. Tip the artificial vagina gently so that the end with the collection bag is pointing down. When the bull has ejaculated, carefully remove the artificial vagina and allow him to dismount.
6. Time shipping of (extended) fresh semen in proper cooling containers so that the samples arrive within four days. Frozen semen can be stored for years.
You can realize substantial savings by changing the faucet yourself rather than hiring a professional to do it.
Kitchen faucet assemblies typically contain a metal or plastic faucet valve. As you move the faucet handle, the handle lifts and rotates the valve to control the water. If the faucet leaks, the rubber seal on the bottom of the faucet is likely damaged. The seal acts as a gateway between the water supply and the valve. Fortunately, new faucet valves are readily available for most kitchen faucet designs and the process of changing the valve is fairly straightforward.
Instructions
Removing the Faucet
1. Turn off both the hot and cold water valves under the sink by twisting them in a clockwise direction.
2. Turn the faucet handle to the On position to release any water that remains in the lines.
3. Remove the cap from the top of the faucet's handle to access the handle screw, if the screw is not already exposed, by lifting the cap away from the handle with a screwdriver.
4. Remove the handle screw with a screwdriver or with a hex wrench, depending on the design of the screw.
5. Lift the handle away from the faucet.
6. Pry the faucet clip away from the faucet with a screwdriver to remove it. Locate the faucet clip on the side of the faucet.
7. Lift the faucet out of the faucet housing.
Installing the Faucet
8. Smear heatproof grease to the rubber seal on the bottom of the faucet and lower the new faucet into the assembly.
9. Insert the retaining clip into the side of the faucet to secure it in place.
10. Position the handle onto the faucet.
11. Tighten the handle screw into the handle with either the screwdriver or with the hex wrench.
12. Position the handle cap over the handle screw and press the cap into the handle until the cap is secure.
13. Turn the two water valves on by twisting them in a counterclockwise direction.