Old style plaster walls don't last forever, and eventually you will have to deal not only with hairline cracks and small holes, but whole areas of loose plaster. Larger repairs can be patched in with sheetrock, tape and joint compound. It's not that difficult with some basic materials and tools, and a professional looking repair can be done over a weekend. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
Repair Plaster Walls with Sheetrock
1. Assess the damage. Cover everything below the damaged area with drop cloths or plastic sheeting because you are going to make a mess. Tap the wall around the damaged area with a putty knife. It will sound hollow wherever the plaster is starting to come away from the lathe. You want to remove all the loose plaster. Plaster walls and ceilings are constructed different than modern sheetrock. Thin strips of lathe are laid across the studs (the wooden framework for the wall). A coating of mortar, often mixed with horsehair (or even feathers) is spread over the lathe, and allowed to dry. Once dry, a thinner coat of white plaster is applied which gives plaster walls their smooth and seamless appearance. Since homes with plaster walls or ceilings are usually quite old, age eventually takes its toll on the mortar and plaster.
2. Remove all the loose and damaged plaster. Cut a rectangular or square area so you can cut a piece of sheetrock to fit. You will expose the lathe, so try to remove the plaster back to a stud so you can attach the sheetrock securely to the stud instead of screwing it to the much thinner lathe.
3. Use the utility knife to score the surface of the plaster along a straightedge as deep as you can. Then use the hammer and chisel or putty knife to carefully remove the old plaster in a straight a line so you can easily cut a sheetrock patch to fit.
4. Buy the right thickness of sheetrock. The regular 1/2" sheetrock may be too thick and will be higher than the original surface. Sheetrock is available in 3/8" thickness, which may well work better. Measure the height of the surrounding plaster as accurately as you can.
5. Cut the sheetrock to fit (use a utility knife) and screw it in to the studs. Spacing the screws about six inches apart along the studs will give you a secure patch. Make sure you screw in the corners of the patch.
6. Fill the mud pan with joint compound (commonly called mud). Using the six inch drywall knife, lay a good bed of mud along the seams. Cut the tape to the correct length and embed it well into the mud along the seams by pressing it in firmly with the drywall knife. Patch over the screw dimples as well. Let this dry for 24 hours. It may shrink quite a bit.
7. Using the ten inch drywall knife, go over the seams again, this time feathering it out as smoothly as you can. Since this is a thinner coat, it will take between four and eight hours to dry. If you are very good, two coats may be sufficient and will sand smooth. If you are matching a texture over the repair, two coats will be plenty and once dry you can sand it smooth and do the texture. If the wall is smooth, chances are you will need to do a third light "touch up" coat of mud to look really good.
8. Check your repair in the best light you can. If you think it looks really good, sand it out. Use your hand to feel all the edges because you'll be able to feel the irregularities easier than seeing them. Do a light coat of mud to smooth out ridges and air bubbles and make sure you let it dry completely before a final sanding. Now you are ready to prime and paint.
Tags: drywall knife, along seams, area with, damaged area, damaged area with, inch drywall
