2001 Buick LeSabre rear window regulator
Hi all, Can someone give me the low down on replace the rear window regulator on a 2001 Buick LeSabre? We were driving down the road and without warning the rear window just drops to the open position. Pulling to the side, I raised the window up to tape it in place and had to back-down the internal mechanism using the window switch in order to lift the window up the remaining 2 inches where it was bound up; so I know the motor is working Ok! Is the window regulator replacement a relatively easy job for do-it-yourselfer? I had the other side window regulator replaced by my old mechanic but he's retired now. I know the interior door panel snaps in and out, but are there any screws that have to be removed first. And once you get to it, what is the procedure for installing the replacement unit? I've found a business that specializes in rebuilding these regulators in Brooklyn, NY and for $125.00 I can get a replacement unit. There's a $40 deposit also for the return of the original broken unit that's refunded. Your help and suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Greynold99 Dear Greynold99 I replaced all the regulators on my 2000 Buick, some several times. Here is the procedure I used. 1. Tape the window up in the closed position. 2. Snap the panel off ... I used a putty knife as a pry tool and worked it around the edges. And no, there are not any screws to take out of the panel 3. Peel back the black inner black liner. Be careful of the black gooey mess. There is no need to completely remove the liner. Use duct tape to keep the liner out of the way. 4. There are 3 nuts, 10MM as I remember, that hold the regulator in place along with 2 more that tighten the clamp to the glass. First snap out the the covers that hide the glass clamp bolts. Loosen them but do not remove. 5. Locate the 3 nuts that hold the regulator in place ... have to look through the holes ... one near the top and two at the bottom. Remove the nuts. You may have to lower the window a bit ... I really don't remember. 6. You should now be able to remove the regulator from the door. To install, reverse the procedure. This procedure may not be exactly right, it has been a few years, but you will find it is not hard at all. The hardest part is dealing with black glue on the inner panel. Be sure and don't get any of that stuff on the upholstery. After trying others, I had my best luck buying from a guy on eBay and his user name is uzd2bmine. That is just a tip and is no way an endorsement. Best of luck. Tom Thanks Tom, You've certainly explained it well enough that I'll give it a try. The only thing I was warned about is snapping off those clips for the door panel... Did you find that prying the panel off in any particular way was better -- bottom/up or top/down or from the side? I'm thinking the bottom-up might give you the best access and best option for covering up a 'broken' clip. Are those clips arranged in any particular pattern? I'll probably be Ok! by experimenting carefully, but thought I'd ask you while I had your attention. Gary I always started at the bottom and worked up. Once you get part of it loose, you can kind of look up and see the next one. Sometimes these things will break but all of them are not necessary. If you need repacements, I found a GM parts house is the place to go .. they are cheap. Take one with you when you go. One thing I forgot to mention ... when you get the regulator bolted into place, connect the motor wiring and slowly run the regulator up until the window clamp is fully engaged. Then tighten the calmp bolts. I think I'm good to go -- glad you remembered that last part. I wondered how you set the duty-cycle for the replacement motor. Don't want to jam the window glass for far when running it up that it breaks. I'll post here once I get the replacement unit installed. It might arrive this week or early next week. Gary Tom, Your directions were excellent and I only encountered one thing that gave me a problem. When I had loosened the inside door panel clips all around there was a metal 'L'-bracket connecting the back of the plastic panel to the door frame near the handle. Instead of a bolt or screw with a hex-head they used one of those very flat-headed Phillips screws that tend to strip out easily if you don't exactly mate the screwhead and screwdriver properly -- I don't even know how they tightened that puppy.. And there was only maybe an 1 1/2 work space to fit any kind of tool - which I didn't have anyway. I wound up rigging one of my Phillips-head screw inserts onto a pair of pliers with electrical tape (also needed a slight angle on the screw-tip to reach the screw properly without stripping the head) and backing the screw out 1/8 of turn at at a time as I tried to hold pressure on the tool with one hand and keep it properly aligned with the other - and holding the door panel away. Honest taking this one screw out was worse than the whole window regulator swap-out. Rest of the job was exactly as you described but I discovered I had to raise replacement window-carriage on the new unit to be able to fit unit into the door through the openings on the upper right-side of the door near/through the rods for the lock. But overall great directions. It'd be nice if they could archive those. Thanks, Gary
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