Friday, December 14, 2012

Take Care Of A Septic Tank And Maintain A Septic System

Septic system maintenance is often overlooked by the majority of home owners, until there are septic system problems. Unfortunately, often by the time a septic tank problem is noticeable the septic system repairs can run into thousands of dollars. Understanding how a septic system works, taking some preventative measures, and following basic care rules now, can save cash later. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions


1. Learn how a septic system works to understand what septic system problems can arise and their causes. Waste water from bathrooms, toilets, the kitchen sink, and laundry, flows through drain lines into a septic tank. The septic tank is a large, water tight box, usually of concrete, metal or fiberglass, that can hold from 500 to 1000 gallons of waste water. At the upper end where the house drain pipe enters the tank, there is a baffle, which can simply be a "T" shaped section of pipe or a compartment formed by a wall that extends several inches above and below the drain pipe opening. The baffle is open at the bottom and top, so waste can drop into the tank and gases can rise to the top. The baffle keeps floating scum from backing up into the drain lines as long as the scum level does not become too thick. On the opposite end of the tank is the exit pipe with another baffle. This pipe carries the clarified waste water out of the septic tank to the leach field after the heavy undigestable solids have settled out of it, forming a sludge layer on the septic tank bottom. It is this sludge and scum that must be periodically removed from the tank before getting too deep or thick. Some septic tanks also have additional short walls that act as baffles creating separate chambers to hold waste back from the pipes. The solids that enter the tank are attacked and digested by anaerobic bacteria and microorganisms that act to pre-clean and clear the water before it enters the leach field to be absorbed by the soil. It is not a matter of solids simply settling out in the septic tank but a biological process that takes place to break those solids down and cycle them back into the leach field soil. The drainage pipes going out to the leach field are perforated so the waste water can enter the soil and be filtered and taken up by the plants above the field. Another part of the septic system are the vent pipes that extend up from the drain lines through your roof. These vents allow waste gases to escape and keep pressure from building up so the water can flow freely. These are the main parts of a standard septic system: the drain lines, the septic tank, the organisms living in the tank, the leach field drain lines, the surrounding soil, the vent stacks, and the water itself. By following some rules it is possible to keep the septic system parts all working together and prevent septic system problems from occurring.


2. First the household drains should not be treated as garbage disposals. Don't put anything down the toilets except for human waste, septic tank safe toilet paper, and the occasional cleaner. This means no cigarette butts, tampons, paper towels, hair, cat litter, disposable diapers, or facial tissues as these will only add to the undigestable load in the septic tank. It has been found through several studies that toilet paper made from recycled paper is the best kind for septic tank systems. Extra soft, extra strong, scented, and fluffed up toilet papers are not good for the system as they add chemicals to it and are slow to break down, thus adding to the solid load. Normal use of soaps, laundry detergents, and disinfectants will not harm a properly working septic system, but it is best to keep chemical additives to a minimum. Never dispose of solvents or paints from washing paint brushes, down drains or antibiotics such as hydrogen peroxide or alcohols which can harm the septic system organisms. In the kitchen, grease and oils should never be poured down the drain as they, along with coffee grounds, are best placed in the trash. Garbage disposals are not good for septic tanks, as they add greatly to the septic tank load with raw materials that have not been broken down in any way. It is better to make a compost pile and recycle all the food scraps. If a disposal is a must, pick one that grinds the waste into the smallest possible pieces and use it sparingly. Try to keep hair out of drains as much as possible as grease and hair clogs are the main reason for using harsh chemical drain cleaners that are bad for the system. Use strainers to catch hair at the drains, and to clean out clogs use drain snakes rather than chemicals whenever possible. Unlike harsh chemical drain cleaners and clog removers, enzymatic drain cleaners that clean drain pipe walls have been shown to be safe for septic systems and will help to dissolve buildups from waxy shampoos and lotions. Baking soda mixed with vinegar and hot water will not harm the septic system and makes a good drain cleaner.


3. Cut back on excess water usage. Using too much water will cause a septic tank to overflow and over saturate the leach field soil cutting down its effectiveness as a filter. Fix all leaky faucets and toilets immediately as a leak of only half a cup per hour will add over 350 gallons of waste water yearly to the tank. Install low flow shower heads and faucet aerators to save water. Many toilets use 4 to 6 gallons of water per use and some so called water saving ones do not have bowls shaped so they are cleaned with a single flush. This means while they only take some 3 gallons per flush, they are usually flushed twice using 6 gallons per use. With older toilets place water displacement items like bricks or water filled bottles in the tank to cut back on water usage. Before buying a new toilet check on their consumer rating to see how well they actually empty the bowl when flushed. With the dishwasher and laundry, only wash full loads and buy water saving appliances such as front loading washing machines. If doing a large amount of laundry try to space it out over the week instead of doing it all on one day, to spread out the water load going into the tank. Cut back on shower times and don't fill the tub so full when bathing. Outside the house, direct any water drainage from the roof or driveway away from the septic tank and field. Don't have gutters or downspouts empty into the septic tank and contour the property so water drains away from the leach field.


4. Know where the septic tank and field lines are, to maintain them and keep them from being damaged. Make a drawing of the system showing some permanent landmarks for reference in the future. Never drive over the tank or field area and do not cover them with any kind of concrete driveway or structure. Septic tanks need to be pumped and cleaned out on occasion meaning that a pump out truck will have to be able to get to it and the tank lid, usually made of two or three pieces of concrete, will have to be removed. The only vegetation that should be allowed to grow over the field and tank is grass, as the deeper roots of other plants will clog the lines. Grass will also help to draw the water out of the leach field lines and keep them draining. Don't irrigate the area over the field lines as the grass will get all the moisture and fertilization it needs from the drain lines. Trees are bad news for drain lines and septic tanks and should be at least 50 to 100 ft. from them. For water seeking species such as willow the distance should be even farther. Tree roots will quickly invade and fill the drain lines meaning you will be tempted to use strong toxic chemicals to clear them or have to put in new drain lines, and the problem will only happen again until the tree is taken out.


5. Know what will work and what won't when maintaining a septic system. There are all kinds of septic tank additives and so called biologicals on the the market that promise to keep a septic system healthy and working properly. Studies have shown for the most part they are unnecessary and some may even harm the system. The floating scum layer in the tank is made up of greases, oils, soap foams and any other lighter than water substances brought into the tank. Some septic tank additives have been shown to react with this layer and either cause it to fluff up and get thicker or break down, making the oils and grease clump together and settle on the bottom layer. Both of these actions are bad for a septic tank as a thicker scum layer can flow under the baffles and enter the drain lines causing them to clog and stopping them up. If the bottom layer of sludge gets covered with a layer of grease and oil the biological breakdown of the waste in it will stop and it will buildup faster causing the greasy waste to enter the field lines stopping them up and keeping water from entering the soil. Heavy use of laundry detergents can also cause a thickening of the scum layer. More suds in a washing machine does not mean cleaner clothes, so use only the amount necessary to do the job. The washer will also have to go through more rinses to remove the excess soap thus using more water. Besides using unnecessary additives another mistake made with septic tanks is having them cleaned and pumped yearly. Depending on where you live, your soil type, tank size, and household size, the tank may only need to be cleaned every 3 to 5 years and in some very warm climates with sandy soils they can go for decades without a buildup problem. Have the system checked by a licensed, home inspection company to see if it needs servicing. Ask long time locals and check with the local extension agency about how septic systems hold up in the area, if just moving in as a new resident. Do not get a tank pumped for the wrong reason. If the property is flooded and the soil around the tank is saturated do not have the tank pumped as the empty tank can be pushed up out of the soil due to the water pressure on it or it can collapse inward.


6. Understand the dangers involved with a septic tank and the signs of septic tank problems. During the breakdown of waste in the tank, gases are given off such as methane and hydrogen sulfide, that can asphyxiate, explode, and kill, so never try to open the tank lid yourself or go into a septic tank. Even simply leaning over an open tank is dangerous. Do not have flame sources near an open tank due to the explosive nature of the gases. Older or improperly built septic tanks can pose other dangers such as collapse, leakage, and unsafe lids that can fall in. When buying an older piece of property be aware that there may be abandoned unfilled tanks that lie hidden as deadly traps. There is also the danger of infection when working around septic systems. The water leaving the tank and flowing into the leach field may look clarified but it is still full of dangerous bacteria and viruses. If the septic tank or field has to be worked on, do not allow pets or children into the area. Some signs of a problem with a septic system include; standing water or soggy soil over the leach field, foul smells that cannot be explained, toilets not flushing fully and backing up repeatedly, water in the basement, the grass over the tank or field suddenly turning a brighter green or dying, and water not draining out of any of the household drains. Keep in mind that in colder climates if drain lines are partially clogged and drain slowly then they may freeze up in the winter. It is best to call a professional who is licensed to work on septic systems if you suspect problems and for checking the system every few years to keep problems from arising in the first place. Below under resources, there are other related articles on home improvements. Please rate this article and all others you decide to check out, thank you.


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Tags: septic tank, septic system, drain lines, leach field, septic tank, tank field, field lines