Aquarite chlorine generator
Originally Posted by dochase In reference to the earlier message about the different part # with digi-key. Does the MS32 work in place of the SL32? I have had no luck in finding the SL32 in stock. I have run in to the problem with no lights on the panel just today and found this thread. It has been awesome in diagnosing my problem. I just have not been able to find the exact replacement thermistor in stock. Also, the board is chipped (the clear coating) where this part had overheated. Do you think this could be a problem after soldered back in? I had great success by calling DigiKey and placing my order over the phone. They were out of stock for a few days but I received two resistors within a week. I can't help you with the chip issue - the resistor I replaced looked fine until I got it out and saw it was split on the underside. Certainly worth trying. First off, thank you Dixon422 for pointing out the solution to this problem. I, like many others on here, had troubles with the power light coming on, along with the generating light, but then everything going off about 10 seconds later. I did not notice a burn mark at the contact points, however I did notice that the SL32-2R025 appeared to be cracked. I followed all of the instructions you posted and it appears that my problem is solved (i just installed 5 minutes ago). I know NOTHING about soldering, so i looked online and got a quick class. Here are the steps i took: Digikey.com part number 570-1062-ND Actual Part Number: SL32-2R025 *NOTE: This part was backlogged and it took a while to come in. I ordered two just in case i messed up and because of the backlog. The price at digikey was $2.64 each. I found them cheaper, but i stuck with digikey since that was what dixon422 recommended. i bought some desoldering braid at radio shack because lowe's or wal-mart didn't have any. *NOTE: I found that nobody really knows anything soldering so i would highly advise going online and finding out about it. I borrowed a soldering iron, but they are quite cheap at radio shack as well. I used a very small diameter solder, but i'm not sure what i used because it was part of what was left in the soldering iron kit i borrowed. however, i looked up what would be recommended and it seems like everything is just fine (resin, lead free, whatever). the process was extremely easy and i did not have to disconnect the circuit board. i just had to undo the cell plug from the board and pull out the board enough to get enough space to work. very easy and the next time it happens, it will only take 5 minutes, start to finish. thanks again, dixon422. i just saved about 500 bucks. john Hello all. It looks like this has been a long discussion. Anyway, this all has been very helpful, and prevented me from buying a new board right away. My problem is power light, and nothing else goes on. No generating light. I had a power surge and the two little resistors are blown. I ordered them and am waiting to install. Any tips on the soldering?? How do I remove the old ones?? Is there any preparations for the soldering? Any advise would be great!! Can any of you help me with my problem? Yesterday my check salt and check cell lights were lit up with salt registering at 1600. We cleaned the cell and added salt. It began generating and showing the salt level of 2300 last night. This morning all lights were lit up with pcb on the display. We turned it off, then back on. Now the check salt and check cell lights are blinking with salt registering at 1600. Any ideas? Our Aqua Rite controller is 7 yrs. old, the T-Cell is 3 yrs. old and the display is registering an incorrect level compared to a water test. Before spending $500+ on a new controller are there any suggested fixes? Originally Posted by cherwill I too had the same issue with the SL 32-2R025 . after changing this component my unit now reads power, generating on auto. My problem now is the check cell and no flow light stays on. and if I set the unit to super chlorinate the generating light goes out. Any suggestions? It may be your flow switch, follow the telephone type cord from your control box to the switch, it unscrews and has a stainless steel flapper valve that is prone to breaking, I've had two valves break in 8 years. The valves are not cheap, but you can get them from the manufacturer, Harwil, a good bit cheaper. The Goldline p/n is GLX-FLO-RP or GLD-451-1001 and the Harwil p/n is Q-12DS-C2, the phone is 805-988-6800. Regards, Trapper Originally Posted by Jim1003 Our Aqua Rite controller is 7 yrs. old, the T-Cell is 3 yrs. old and the display is registering an incorrect level compared to a water test. Before spending $500+ on a new controller are there any suggested fixes? I'm assuming you mean the salt level? Mine is doing the same thing and the instant salinity (5th button push) and the salt level (default display) don't agree. I found reference to this problem at: http://nocellpower.info/ (this outfit also shows remanufactured circuit boards on e-bay) It says to clean the turbo cell so I'm off to H.D. or L. for some muratic acid to give it a clean and see if that helps. I'll let you know how it goes. Regards, Trapper Dixon422, Thanks 4 the advice! My Aquarite had been down and I was looking at a new control board 250 up! Read your post, ordered the parts (UPS delivery). Went out of town for a extended weekend parts came in while I was gone. Dog had a field day with the UPS Boxes, but fortunately he did not eat any of the resistors (ordered the red and black ones) found them throughout the yard. Installed them on Monday, and all working good today! Thanks a Bunch! I too had exactly the same problem. I purchased a SL32-2R025, unsoldered the old component, and installed the new one. BINGO, everything is now working!!! Excellent Posting!! Jusy installed generic replacement cell in my six year old sytem and everything appeared to work as expected. However after running for 1-2 hrs I get PCB error code on the display. If I turn off and restart same thing happens again - runs for a while with the correct LCD lights and display all functioning correctly then PCB error code appears and lcd lights go dark. Any suggestions for a fix? . Thank you. My panel has been doing strange things lately. It will either say the salt is 4,400 which is not accurate or it will just say High salt and the check cell light will go on. The power light is always on and when it says 4,400 the generating light will stay on. I had salt tested last week and salt level is fine as is chlorine level. I also had the salt cell tested at two locations and it passed. Up until last week I was not getting algae but now I am and salt and chlorine levels should still be good. Could the board just be bad? This forum has been fabulous and I am set to order the SL32-2R025 from Digi-key but I am also told the thermistor is a common part that fails in these units as well. Can anyone tell me locate the thermistor on my PCB or does anyone have a circuit schematic? Thanks, i appreciate everyone's help here. It sounds like I have the same problem as almost everyone else with the resistor in the board. I have a burn mark on the back of the board. I have an Err2 coded on the LCD. The power light is the only light on. I will try and do the soldering first before buyin a new board. If anyone is going to buy a new board make sure you ask what version. The board has to be v1.5 or higher. Anything else is obsolete and cheaper! i installed the SL32-2R025 from Digi-key and still nothing but the power light. any one know what else to replace befoe I buy a complete new system just to get a 3 year warrenty? Thank you to Dixon 44 as well! I called Hayward tech support for help diagnosing my salt generator problems. They said it was a bad cell... so I ordered one. Before it came, I searched and found this thread. I had exactly the same problem and Dixon 44's diagnosis and solution worked perfectly. Note, after the repair the Check Salt, Inspect Cell lights came on a number of times before the system apparently recalibrated. Now, if I could just return this new cell without the restocking fee... I guess I'll keep it since I'm 3 1/2 years into my old cell and over 10,000 hours. The power light and others are not working. Will occasionally come on for a couple seconds. There are only 4 components in the generator control box. ; main board, front display board, transformer, and 2 rectifiers on the back wall. With no power light, you first chect to see if 110V is coming in. The black and white wires on the main board on the left side, with screw on terminals, shoule read 110V If you do have no power there, looking at everything in the box, the assumption should be the main board has some problem. In my case I looked up the aqua rite chlorine generator circuit board, or parts, on the web. I saw pool supply world, GLX-PCB-RITE - HAYWARD POOL PRODUCTS INC. - MAIN PCB, AQUA RITE, REVISION 1.5, T-CELL 15 and went there. I called and eventually ordered the main board. They also have the display board out front. When it came I looked it over and compared everything. it looked the same. Except the main 110V in terminal had different jumper straps in the wrong place as my origional one. I eventually found a decal on the generator door that says to usethe jumper lay out as my origional had for 110V or the way it came as 220V which says it isthe default set up. So I moved them and plugged everything in. It works again!! Thanks to all on this thread! I had the same issue with my 5 year old Aqua Rite panel. It was clicking on and off which prevented my chlorine generator from producing chlorine. My ritzy pool supply store (where pool furniture costs $4000 and up and the owner drives a Lexus) wanted $712 plus tax for a new board. After my wife read this blog, we knew we had to try it! I quickly ordered two thermistors (570-1062-ND) from DigiKey and received it in 4 days. I decided to get two ($2.64 each) since they were cheap and to have a spare for next time. Shipping was only $2.50 but depends on zip code. While I waited for delivery, I put a few chlorine tabs in my skimmers to keep my chlorine level good. I received the new part and removed the circuit board so I could take it to my neighbor’s house. I made a quick diagram of what wires went where, but most of the contacts are clearly marked with wire colors. My friend is a HAM radio junkie who has all kinds of electronic tools and gadgets. Nice guy as well! He just had shoulder surgery so I helped allot, and enjoyed the lesson in circuit board repair! We de-soldered the two contact points from the back side of the panel. We used a solder sucker while melting the old solder. This is basically a spring loaded vacuum syringe looking thing that sucks melted solder from the area. Then we removed the bad thermistor and honed out the small o-ring hole with a small drill bit in-hand. I slide the two long prongs of the new thermistor through the holes (label markings pointing up) until it was about 1/8 from the circuit board. My friend soldered from the back side and then I clipped off the excess prongs. Done! This took all of 10 minutes with his cool tools. Just for kicks, my friend used an Ohm Meter to check the bad thermistor and sure enough, it was reading very high and sporadic ohms (5.0 - 6.9) which I think meant it was in the open position and probably burnt out. We tested the new one and it read steady at 2.8. All-in-all I spent around $8 for a savings of over $700! I am very grateful for you guys on this blog sharing your same issue and hope other see this and can save them some money. Thanks! 65 Striker Replaced board, free under warranty. But now transformer vibrates these magnetic pulses out. When I screw cover back on and switch to auto and it then starts processing chlorine it vibrates the cover heavily. Transformer doesn't shake just sends out a pulse that vibrates the cover. New transformer? Something else. It produces chlorine, I don't run it though in case irbid a bad transformer and may possibly break the new board. I replaced the INRUSH CURRENT LIMITER (although it was not visibly damaged), and that seemed to do the trick--for a day. I ran the filter and Aquarite all night, and it was still working the next morning. The pool chlorine level was about 5ppm. The next afternoon, however, it was broken again: four blinking red lights (no power light, just like before). I replaced the inrush current limiter again yesterday. Again, all was well, and I ran the filter all night. And, again, it was working fine this morning. This afternoon it's dead again--same symptoms. Could something else on the circuit be killing inrush current limiters? Originally Posted by dixon422 Small world. I just ran into the exact issue with my Mother-in-law's Aqua Rite. Upon closer inspection, I noticed the big black component (resistor) at the top right of the board (looking at it mounted) had burned the board at is post-attach points. I then noticed similar situations with the two red components (resistors) located on top and bottom of the screw terminals on the left lower corner of the board. They were actually split open. I'm in the process of finding replacements and firing up the soldering iron. Good luck. I'll update if my process works or not. If you find the same, the part number is SL32-2R025 for the big one (Digikey.com has them for $2.40). The jury is still out on the smaller ones. - John Hey everyone, I just opend the pool to find out my Auqa-Rite isn't working. The power light is on and nothing else. Tried to reset, nothing. Haven't looked inside the panel yet. Found this forum and here I am. Where should I start? I had the same problem with my main circuit broad on my salt generator. The load limiter burnt up, I found a brand new circuit broad at summersetpools.com Part# GLX-PCB-RITE for 184.00 and free shipping, other places I looked for it they wanted over 300.00 just for this one part. I was surprised this morning when I checked my 2.5 year old AR chlorine generator and the LCD that usually displays the salt level said HOT, further research when I pressed the button on left side said the water temp was 154 degrees...this is not correct. And the unit does not seem to be producing chlorine due to the high temp reading. I checked the resistor everybody seems to be having issues with and it is not cracked and looks fine. I have turned off all power to the unit for several minutes hoping it would reset but still the same. It seems that previously when the pump timer shut off all power to the AR would shut off. But now the HOT sign is on, the power light is on and the no flow light is on, unless I trip the breaker on the pump timer, when I reset breaker the lights come on again. My pool maintenance guys have not mentioned this so not sure how long it has been going on... If the generator is giving you a hot reading there are a couple areas to check. First, check the filter and make sure it is clean. Second, remove the cell and check for debris inside the cell that may have gotten past a bad filter. If it has shown hot for too long it could damage the cell, and it would have to be replaced. Also, The minimum reading for salt is 2600 and will stop producing chlorine at this level, as asked in previous messages where the salt reading was at 1600. Thanks for the reply, I already checked both of those, and doesn't seem to be the problem. Hayward said it is probably the temp sensor in the cell and it needs to be replaced. I saw in one of these threads how someone by passed that. I may look at trying that next. Hello!!! I have aa Aquarite unit that the power supply is very hot to the touch.... The unit still works , but Im afraid it will damage the brand new circuit board that I've just installed two days ago. Can anybody please advise me on this?????? Thanks in advance What gold line has told me, it depends on how much amperage is being used by the cell, and what the output is set to on the unit. If you have an amp reading of 6.20 or higher and your out put is set to say, 90, then the unit will produce heat on the top. This is where the transformer is located. According to Goldline, this is normal. Thanks!!! I was king of worried cause I had a problem with the power Co. and my Main circuit board got fried and I was thinking that the transformer was damaged too. Thanks again!!!! I'll keep an eye on it. i have an aqua rite that is showing a check cell light and a low salt light blinking . have had the salt level checked and it is around 3100ppm and display is saying 2600 . have cleaned the cell 2 times now . pool supply store says its a bad cell but still produces chlorine all levels are fine just faulty reading on ppm and low salt lih blinking any ideas ? I am soooo thankful for this site and all of the DIY helpers that replied to this thread. I knew there had to be something more to fixing my salt chlorinator than just buy a new circuit board (pool store's recommendation). After troubleshooting all the obvious, I started looking online and found this thread...THANK GOD! Ordered a new thermistor from Digikey (arrived 2 days later with reg. USPS) and replaced the fried one...works like new again! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! My unit blows fuses when door is closed. SL32 brown behind board. 108 deg off transformer. Any suggestions? I seem to be having a problem opposite to most I've seen in this thread, namely that my Aquarite seems to be generating all the time when it is on auto , no matter what % it is dialed to. The green generating light comes on as soon as I switch it from off to auto, and I can hear it click and start to generate a few seconds later...this seems to be confirmed by my clorine reading which is higher than it should be, despite being dialed back to 5% ...I've now started turning it off for periods of time but not the best solution...anyone have any ideas? Appreciate your help..thx What is your salt level currently at? Also did you check the cell voltage and cell current readings? These reading can tell you whether or not your cell is generating chlorine or not regardless of the green light which anyway always should be on when the pump is running. Salt is around 3200-3300. .... interesting , I just went out and check the readings, I had left in on auto, turned to 5% and it was in fact not generating. I turned it up to 50-60%, and it clicked and started generate....perhaps it is ok although I'm skeptical, earlier today it gave me a hi salt reading, but i disconnected the power and turned it back on and it went away, perhaps I am at right at the hi end of the appropriate salt level but first time I saw that, I'll watch it over the next couple of days and see if it is reacting to the dial. If I recall correctly , the generating light should go off when its not generating, but maybe its just staying on, even when it stops generating for a period...I'll play with it over the weekend and see what conclusion I come to. Thanks If your is like mine, each time the chlorinator is turned on it uses the other phase of the device from the one it last used. In other words half can work and half can not. Cell voltage and current checks will tell you the situation for each side of the cell. By turning the unit on and off and checking the reads each time you can confirm the situation of each phase. You might also want to have your cell tested at a pool supply place. How old is the cell? Most don't last more than 5 years unfortunately. In my system once the pressure is stable after about one minute the green light comes on and stays on regardless of whether the cell is generating or not at that time. It flashes when it is time to check and clean the cell about every 3 months in my case also. The voltage and current reads tell what the cell is doing at any given moment. My unit is about 5 years old, but we only run up here in the north about 4-5 months a year so I'm hoping I get a few more that 5 years out of it. I don't think there is a pool stores here that would know anything about these things ( nothing turned up when I checked Hayward for service in my area) , I'm in PEI and limited knowledge here at best, not sure where I'd have to go to have it looked at by someone who actually knew something about them. I can tell from the voltages readings it is coming on some so perhaps its ok. I am managing to keep my clorine level about where it should be, I've set the dial at about 25% which is where I've had it previous years so I'll see what happens the next few days. I just have to be sure I keep checking everyday to make sure it doesn't get out of control, one way or the other. Thanks for the help I forgot to ask also about how many hours per day your pump is running. I think the general rule is one hour for every 10 degree F of water temperature, though I know that you are used to degrees C in Canada. I can imagine your dilema in PEI also. It is a different story obvious in my location where every house has a cement/plaster pool in the rear that never closes. Check your manual in regards to the readings and what they mean, and also check the reading variation as I suggested by turning the unit on and off for the different polarity. I don't have access to mine at the moment but I think that for example when voltage is over 25 it is not producing. I forget what the current should read when it is producing but it is something less than 7, but the manual will show it. If you want you can also call a U.S. pool supply chain. In my area I buy from a chain called Leslies for example They will be able to tell you everything you need to know also. That is their business and they have alot of customers of course with the same issues. I am praising the individual know as DIXON 422 as he is my HERO! This is how the internet (asside from meeting my beautiful wife) is meant to be used. Of course I too had the same issues with my chlorinator no power light [checked the fuse-it was OK], no chlorine in the pool, digital display worked [not correct readings but worked], flow light came on, then chlorinator came on and went out...read through the threads and orderded the SL32 2R025 [aka 570-1062-ND digikey's part #] and via standard mail and $7.97 later [also orderded two]..this even before I checked the board and saw the burnt out board..received the parts in the mail. Had to spend $18.08 for solder iron, and desoldering braid [which I found by educating myself on soldering even though I did this years ago as a child...never even heard of it...BUT this was so useful in getting out the old part, which by the way crumbled and all I was left with was the two leads to get out...but without the braid, I would not have been able to create the two holes to put the new part on the board...and VOILA after soldering [Donna my wife now calls me solderfella] the part and putting everything back together, I now have my chlorinator back. You do need to wait hours to read the setting after initiating the chlorinator with the new part and DIXON 422 you saved me HUNDREDS of $$$ and everyone who reads this and has the same issue BELIEVE IT WORKS!!! Dixon442, YOU ROCK! I know you haven't been to this thread since '08 but thank you bro, where ever you are. I ordered the $3 part from digikey and now I'm back in business. Replacing the big black varistor did the trick. Your posts saved me several hundred dollars from the repair vultures. Thank you, Thank you, and Thank you! I have a different problem altogether. My generating light stays on even when the equipment goes off and when the next filter cycle comes on it reads low salt and check cell. I even when out and bought a new cell and it does it with it too. I checked the flow switch and it seems to be ok when I unplug the wire form under the box I get a no flow light flashing and when I plug it back in it goes out. Any ideas from anyone would be appreciated. T-Cell 5 should have a range of 1.9 to 5.7 amps. The T-Cell 15 should have a range of 3.1 to 8.0 amps. Yellow wires should have 20-24 VAC across them. Turn off the power, and remove the blue, white, gray and violet wires. Insert probes from a test meter and measure resistance between the blue and white, and the violet and gray wires. The readings should be 2.0 to 2.9 Ohms. On the black and red wires on the top right of the board there should be 18-33 VDC. If no, or low voltage, replace the rectifiers. Remove and then reinstall the DSP board to reset it. You can check for 3-5 VDC across pins 1and 3 for no display readings. If voltage is correct across 13 then replace DSP board. If your salt is too high, a rule of thumb, each inch of water drained will reduce the salt level 100ppm. Usually if the lights go out there is a problem with the board. Look at the Thermister in the top right hand corner of the board (black, flat) and see if it has a burn area where it connects to the board.
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