Pinhole in copper pipe
I have a pin hole in a 3/4 copper water pipe. The pipe is amongst the floor/ceiling joists between the 1st 2nd floor. Normally a person can cut the pipe at the pinhole and solder in a coupling. But because of proximity to a joist and a tee fitting, I don't think there is enough give in the pipeing to get the coupling on the pipe without damageing the pipe. What if I cut the coupling in half (lengthwise) and soldered it over the pin hole. Can this be done? SteveS Necessity is the mother of invention.... sometimes you do what you have to do.... I can't believe I'm about to suggest this, as I usually go with the proper fix (which would be removal/replacement) - but, if it's a single pinhole - you can purchase a leak repair clamp which is in essence, a hose clamp with a slice of rubber inside the strap that fits over your pipe, the rubber covers the hole, and when you tighten it down - stops the leak. I've used them in the past - and they actually work. You don't need much give in the pipe. You can buy slip couplings that slide all the way on to the pipe. They don't have a stop like most couplings. If that won't work, cut out a small section of the pipe and use two slip couplings. Slide the couplings on the cut out piece, put it back in place and slide the couplings over the joint. Solder both joints. If you use a slip coupling be sure to mark the pipe so you know you have enough engagement. I could cut out about 3max. Then use 2 slip couplings. I went back to Menards today. Returned 2 couplings with the dimples. They were $.44 Monday. $67 today. Then I'll need some kind of heat shield. Maybe this unused aluminum baking pan. The clamp would probably be easier. How about that 2-part epoxy sealant. Does that stuff really work? Thanks;. Avoid the epoxy unless you don't mind repairing it again in the future... A baking pan makes a good heat shield.... better if you can double it (bend it over, thereby ruining it, but providing better insulation). Skramy: don't try shortcuts to fix this. I detect from your posts, you are resisting excellent solutions for your problem. One more thing, if you have a pin hole leak today, get ready, it won't be your last, especially in the run you are repairing. If you are on a well, you may be getting a little sand which will tend to, over time, eat from the inside out on your piping. It may be time to replace that entire lateral run while you have your torch hot. It may be easier than making a small repair today, tomorrow, next week, etc. I too agree you should not try a temporary patch. A suggestion in addition to a heat shield would be to put water in a spray bottle and soak any wood near and in any potential fire travel paths. Besides using a heat shield, you can buy a cool gel which you spray on the wood, and it reduces the possibility of catching fire; Save yourself a lot of work go with thezster. I put a pipe clamp on a pin hole it was still holding when we sold house 10 years later................. Whenever I do such work in risky areas I have already sprayed as suggested, and had 5 gallon pail of water (or even a hose set up) and glass or kettle to dunk in and throw at it and a fire extinguisher or two. I don't beleive in tempting fate, as you can see. A shield definitly helps. Always keep in mind that if you have flame on high, it can bounce off the pipe and go to where you did not quite plan and also in certain situations air drafts (especially hollow cavity updrafts where sparks can go flying up) come into play. Of interest to all, I have cut out and repaired pin hole leaks on well systems. Very bizarre how that occurs as I have actually sectioned out pipe and analyzed it, and right near the pinhole, if you cut the pipe, it is full thicknesss and coppery all the way thru. Yet if you pipe-cutter right through the pinhole itself, which is green, the hole is confined to just that wormhole. Very strange. I have wondered if some chunk of iron (dissimilar metal electrolysis) settles on the copper there, perhaps in a slight swag in a horizontal run. Regarding cutting of a pipe that is pinned: Sometimes when cut you can move the one cut section up 1/2 inch and the other half down 1/2 inch to slip on one of the stopless slip couplings, as suggested. Also if you ever buy stop-fittings and wish one were stopless, you can file or dremel out that little stop. I've done it plenty times. You should make an effort to find the cause of the pinhole. You can send the sample off the the Copper Development Association - they're likely to have an opinion on what caused it. http://www.copper.org/ And here's a copper corrosion link: http://www.coppercare.com/index.html I managed to find this: http://www.wssc.dst.md.us/copperpipe...igation_fs.pdf Hopefully you have repaired the pinhole by now. Now what you need to do is determine what caused the pinhole. The two usual suspects are low pH and mis grounding of plumbing. If you suspect low pH (acidic water) then you should really have the test performed right at your home since water sitting in a plastic bottle for days before it is tested can tend to rise in the pH scale, therefore giving you a false reading. If you suspect it is mis grounding on the plumbing, an electrician, and not a plumber, is your best bet for fixing it.
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